Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm hoping pump gas cause here we dont have 98RON. Dunno what the knock is gonna be on our horrible gas, might have to go water/meth inj. for a save tune.

Hey Girorostar, yeah most of the fuel you get on the islands is fairly poor ( comparitable to a mix of 91 and cheap ethanol)... I spend quite a lot of time in the carib/lower carib/trinidad etc on private superyachts.

I'd suggest buying 20lt drums of toluene and add a 7:1 mix of gasoline:toluene. Your biggest problem will be that the fuel you get where you are isn't of a constant grade and is usually full of water!

If you tune your car on a 'good' batch of fuel then fill up will a different/poor batch of fuel and drive the car hard you may very well damage the engine quite quickly.

Water will damage your fuel system and will also allow sludge/bactiria to grow in your fuel system (it'll gunk it up pretty quick). The biologicals actually live in the water but feed on hydrocarbons (your fuel) then 'poop' out more water and gas/sulfates etc.

I've helped a few guys with they're imports on the islands, this is what I suggest:

Toluene

Good knock sensor and indicator (eg Power FC)

Good knock correction mapping

Very conservative tune

Single point methanol injection... (seperate tank, pump, injector and controller) Not WMI.

We set up a single point meth injector on a s13 in Sint Maartin... worked quite well!

Good luck

Justin

Hey Girorostar, yeah most of the fuel you get on the islands is fairly poor ( comparitable to a mix of 91 and cheap ethanol)... I spend quite a lot of time in the carib/lower carib/trinidad etc on private superyachts.

I'd suggest buying 20lt drums of toluene and add a 7:1 mix of gasoline:toluene. Your biggest problem will be that the fuel you get where you are isn't of a constant grade and is usually full of water!

If you tune your car on a 'good' batch of fuel then fill up will a different/poor batch of fuel and drive the car hard you may very well damage the engine quite quickly.

Water will damage your fuel system and will also allow sludge/bactiria to grow in your fuel system (it'll gunk it up pretty quick). The biologicals actually live in the water but feed on hydrocarbons (your fuel) then 'poop' out more water and gas/sulfates etc.

I've helped a few guys with they're imports on the islands, this is what I suggest:

Toluene

Good knock sensor and indicator (eg Power FC)

Good knock correction mapping

Very conservative tune

Single point methanol injection... (seperate tank, pump, injector and controller) Not WMI.

We set up a single point meth injector on a s13 in Sint Maartin... worked quite well!

Good luck

Justin

Thanks for the advice Justin, yea the biggest issues a lot of RB motors has on this island is fuel, they dont like it! I will start doing some research on this on how to set it up on my car. Hope everything will go right and i dont blow the engine.

A friend of mine with a r33 gtr made 315rwkw on pump gas here but he has a HKS built motor and another friend of mine with a stock motor r33 gtst made 270rwkw on a very conservative tune cause he had a lot of knock on higher power had to lower the boost. He's still searching for a way to drop down the knock levels, I will tell him about this and see what he thinks.

  • 4 weeks later...

i will try the 5857 AR:82 on my RB26 !!! after i saw the result on a 1JZ from the state .

what do you guys think ?

If you plan to run E85 and 35psi I think you will be VERY happy.

If you plan to run E85 and 35psi I think you will be VERY happy.

I think you'll find that's about on the money... They're a great turbo if you'r running BIG boost numbers. Don't expect tooo much from 20psi.

Cheers

Justin

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

so what did the powertune r34 gtr with the 7175 billet on it make powerwise? the powercruise youtube vid is impressive to say the least....

About 0.0197hp/$1 at the fly.

Find the turbos suggested output and do the math, then consider that as a rough minimum.

Your chasing the wrong product, Honda has the power of dreams!

After the last dyno run, I've changed a few things- most importantly the exhaust. Turns out the center muffler has partially collapsed causing higher backpressure in that section of the exhaust. I'm not shure how that will change the power output, however it feels more responsive now.... either way I was allways changing setups to a top mount TD06 and there's no point re-tuning untill I get the new turbo on.

If anyone is interested I have my 5557 for sale at the moment. $1400 with 46mm wastegate and professionally made stock manifold adapter.

post-22624-0-87487800-1303338949_thumb.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/361517-billet-turbo-hks-manifold-and-a-heap-more-good-gear/page__gopid__5772382#entry5772382

Cheers

Justin

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

So..... anyone got anymore results with these turbos?

PJ??? anyone?

also wat was the rear housing size on the precision billet 7175 used on the white r34 gtr

i want to go a 6765 divided for street and the exact 7175 used on the powertune 34 for show, race n dyno

  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a suitably ridiculous result from an EVO in the states running a new Precision PT6766 (.82a/r hot side) at just over 40psi on E85:

stm_ricer_846_620_dyno.jpg

Mustang Dynos read in the territory of Dyno Dynamics, they are not generous dynos at all - to put down 850awhp/634awkw this is a ridiculous piece of machinery. Imagine one on an E85 slurping RB30? :D

im ordering 1 monday...

built tomei 2.8, 288 jun cams, 2000cc id injectors... powertune twin 044 in tank setup...

wil b interesting, hope to have running by xmas or just afta...

do u think ported "hp" cover would make much difference over the non ported "h" cover?

cheers

im ordering 1 monday...

built tomei 2.8, 288 jun cams, 2000cc id injectors... powertune twin 044 in tank setup...

wil b interesting, hope to have running by xmas or just afta...

do u think ported "hp" cover would make much difference over the non ported "h" cover?

cheers

On a big capacity good spooling engine you'll need the ported front cover to avoid surge but Rb's are known to spool slowly so you should ok without it...

bigmikespec, just want some advice from an expert.. wat are the pros n con of having and not having the surge cover for "my" application on this turbo?

i want to run about 25-30 psi on the street on e85 and keep winding it up for race til it tapers off the power/boost curve...

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...