Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm hoping pump gas cause here we dont have 98RON. Dunno what the knock is gonna be on our horrible gas, might have to go water/meth inj. for a save tune.

Hey Girorostar, yeah most of the fuel you get on the islands is fairly poor ( comparitable to a mix of 91 and cheap ethanol)... I spend quite a lot of time in the carib/lower carib/trinidad etc on private superyachts.

I'd suggest buying 20lt drums of toluene and add a 7:1 mix of gasoline:toluene. Your biggest problem will be that the fuel you get where you are isn't of a constant grade and is usually full of water!

If you tune your car on a 'good' batch of fuel then fill up will a different/poor batch of fuel and drive the car hard you may very well damage the engine quite quickly.

Water will damage your fuel system and will also allow sludge/bactiria to grow in your fuel system (it'll gunk it up pretty quick). The biologicals actually live in the water but feed on hydrocarbons (your fuel) then 'poop' out more water and gas/sulfates etc.

I've helped a few guys with they're imports on the islands, this is what I suggest:

Toluene

Good knock sensor and indicator (eg Power FC)

Good knock correction mapping

Very conservative tune

Single point methanol injection... (seperate tank, pump, injector and controller) Not WMI.

We set up a single point meth injector on a s13 in Sint Maartin... worked quite well!

Good luck

Justin

Hey Girorostar, yeah most of the fuel you get on the islands is fairly poor ( comparitable to a mix of 91 and cheap ethanol)... I spend quite a lot of time in the carib/lower carib/trinidad etc on private superyachts.

I'd suggest buying 20lt drums of toluene and add a 7:1 mix of gasoline:toluene. Your biggest problem will be that the fuel you get where you are isn't of a constant grade and is usually full of water!

If you tune your car on a 'good' batch of fuel then fill up will a different/poor batch of fuel and drive the car hard you may very well damage the engine quite quickly.

Water will damage your fuel system and will also allow sludge/bactiria to grow in your fuel system (it'll gunk it up pretty quick). The biologicals actually live in the water but feed on hydrocarbons (your fuel) then 'poop' out more water and gas/sulfates etc.

I've helped a few guys with they're imports on the islands, this is what I suggest:

Toluene

Good knock sensor and indicator (eg Power FC)

Good knock correction mapping

Very conservative tune

Single point methanol injection... (seperate tank, pump, injector and controller) Not WMI.

We set up a single point meth injector on a s13 in Sint Maartin... worked quite well!

Good luck

Justin

Thanks for the advice Justin, yea the biggest issues a lot of RB motors has on this island is fuel, they dont like it! I will start doing some research on this on how to set it up on my car. Hope everything will go right and i dont blow the engine.

A friend of mine with a r33 gtr made 315rwkw on pump gas here but he has a HKS built motor and another friend of mine with a stock motor r33 gtst made 270rwkw on a very conservative tune cause he had a lot of knock on higher power had to lower the boost. He's still searching for a way to drop down the knock levels, I will tell him about this and see what he thinks.

  • 4 weeks later...

i will try the 5857 AR:82 on my RB26 !!! after i saw the result on a 1JZ from the state .

what do you guys think ?

If you plan to run E85 and 35psi I think you will be VERY happy.

If you plan to run E85 and 35psi I think you will be VERY happy.

I think you'll find that's about on the money... They're a great turbo if you'r running BIG boost numbers. Don't expect tooo much from 20psi.

Cheers

Justin

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

so what did the powertune r34 gtr with the 7175 billet on it make powerwise? the powercruise youtube vid is impressive to say the least....

About 0.0197hp/$1 at the fly.

Find the turbos suggested output and do the math, then consider that as a rough minimum.

Your chasing the wrong product, Honda has the power of dreams!

After the last dyno run, I've changed a few things- most importantly the exhaust. Turns out the center muffler has partially collapsed causing higher backpressure in that section of the exhaust. I'm not shure how that will change the power output, however it feels more responsive now.... either way I was allways changing setups to a top mount TD06 and there's no point re-tuning untill I get the new turbo on.

If anyone is interested I have my 5557 for sale at the moment. $1400 with 46mm wastegate and professionally made stock manifold adapter.

post-22624-0-87487800-1303338949_thumb.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/361517-billet-turbo-hks-manifold-and-a-heap-more-good-gear/page__gopid__5772382#entry5772382

Cheers

Justin

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

So..... anyone got anymore results with these turbos?

PJ??? anyone?

also wat was the rear housing size on the precision billet 7175 used on the white r34 gtr

i want to go a 6765 divided for street and the exact 7175 used on the powertune 34 for show, race n dyno

  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a suitably ridiculous result from an EVO in the states running a new Precision PT6766 (.82a/r hot side) at just over 40psi on E85:

stm_ricer_846_620_dyno.jpg

Mustang Dynos read in the territory of Dyno Dynamics, they are not generous dynos at all - to put down 850awhp/634awkw this is a ridiculous piece of machinery. Imagine one on an E85 slurping RB30? :D

im ordering 1 monday...

built tomei 2.8, 288 jun cams, 2000cc id injectors... powertune twin 044 in tank setup...

wil b interesting, hope to have running by xmas or just afta...

do u think ported "hp" cover would make much difference over the non ported "h" cover?

cheers

im ordering 1 monday...

built tomei 2.8, 288 jun cams, 2000cc id injectors... powertune twin 044 in tank setup...

wil b interesting, hope to have running by xmas or just afta...

do u think ported "hp" cover would make much difference over the non ported "h" cover?

cheers

On a big capacity good spooling engine you'll need the ported front cover to avoid surge but Rb's are known to spool slowly so you should ok without it...

bigmikespec, just want some advice from an expert.. wat are the pros n con of having and not having the surge cover for "my" application on this turbo?

i want to run about 25-30 psi on the street on e85 and keep winding it up for race til it tapers off the power/boost curve...

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...