Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PJ....that R34 with the stock bottom end and stock cams....what was the power at the hubs? Im presuming the dyno run is showing corrected power at the fly? Im in the UK and I want to run a single on my Forged RB26 in my R32 GTR (Stock head and cams). Im going with a T3/T4 topmount manifold and was looking at the 6262.....I want 500BHP at the hubs at no more than 25PSI.......is this gonna be do-able with the 6262? Im looking for spool compariable to uprated twins but with the ability to crack 500BHp at the wheels. What do you reccomend guys??? Exact turbo specs please?

Oh.......why all the reference to 4 Cylinder Nissan engines and even worse Toyota engines??? Surely you guys must be all running 6 cylinder RB's in the main???? Just find it a little strange as in the UK where im from there isnt a lot of skyline interest in 4 cylinder mills....its all RB26/26/30 etc.......

Cheers

Andy

Is it a T3 or T4 manifold, you cant have both.

Is it a T3 or T4 manifold, you cant have both.

Now you can!

They are making manifolds with flange plates which have the bore of a T3 and the footprint of a T4 with the bolt holes for both.

Sounds OK. Flexible :)

Your in the UK arent you Andy B?

In OZ we measure actual energy at the output point. Thus if we are on a Hub dyno we are measuring energy at the hubs and if we are on a Chassis dyno we are measuring energy at the wheels.

Obviously the hub dynos read a little higher as the wheels sap a little energy away on the chassis dyno.

We normally want to know what sort of power we are putting to the road, it is a good indicator of the cars performance. Take our fabled Commonwhore V8's for example, some of the older LS1 models rolled out of the factory with something along the lines of 280kw (flywheel rated), yet you chuck them on a dyno and should be pleased if you have 200rwkw.

Yanks are also guilty of calculating flywheel HP through a chassis dyno or similar, sort of misleading IMHO. I would rather know what sort of energy I put to the road than what sort of energy I could theoretically put to the road lol

Guys,

Estimating Flywheel power is comon here in the UK and yes, I agree its a load of BS. Power at the wheels is where its at. Im surprised the PT 6262 mande nearly 500BHP ATW..........................

i saw that sound performance in the US were testing the 6266 on a stock motor/w kelford cams 3.0 ltr 2JZ with a cast manifold it made 748 whp and 730 tq @ 29 psi on E64 and say they can squeeze 800whp out of it with more boost. He did one pull on pump gas also and made about 530 whp @ under 20 psi

6266.... What's the specs on that? It's bigger than the 6262 I presume??

its a newer wheel from precision thats for the 67 and 62 turbos , spools for example 6766 spooled better and picked up 35 hp over the 6765

some more info about it and price on the Sound Performance site 899 US dollars for the normal journal bearing one

spracingonline.com/store/Precision_62mm_CEA_Billet_Turbo_6266

here is the dyno sheet from the stock motor 3.0 ltr 2JZ using a 6266

MarkCook11024x768.jpg

Here is a comparison between a 6765 and a 6766

299736_2240601587792_1630643829_2220817_1240013805_n.jpg

Edited by R32GTR/Iceland

That looks great but has anyone put one of these on a 26?? I see loads of high boost RB30 examples but I wanna see a 26 ..... Not running on E85.... Just pump gas . Can anyone post up such results? A good turbo on a 26 with std cams and pump fuel should be able to make 500whp well under 2 bar......spooling at less than 3500 and making full boost by 4500........ Anyone???

some more info on a 6266 on a Supra / 2JZ

amazing results !

Craig's Supra:

Precision 6266 CEA Billet .81 A/R

3.4L Stroker with 9.5:1 CR

Kelford 274 cams

Built but UNported Head

Hypertune Intake Manifold

Approx 683whp/590wtq and crossing 300ft-lb @ 2900rpm on SP's mustang dyno. @ 18.3 psi

770whp/700wtq @ 24 psi

843 whp wtq @ 29 psi

300wtq @ 3000rpm

Peak Torque @ 4800rpm

Peak Power @ 5300rpm

Steady Power through 7800rpm redline

959 RWHP and 941 TQ on a 6266 with nitrous !!! Boost hit 38 psi then fell to 29 where it actually makes peak hp. 125 shot of nitrous.

bush_843whp844wtq29psi.jpg

6266 with nitrous

CraigBush5.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...