Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know of any GTR's running the PT6262 ball bearing with a T4 Divided .84 A/R with 3 5/8" V-Band discharge? would the .84 twin scroll be abit restrictive on the 26?

I have just bolted mine up today. The exact turbo u are talking about. Hoping to have it running by next weekend after i finish a 34 with PT5558.

I have fabbed up dump pipes for both and worked out cooler piping, plumb back pipes etc

efeef931.jpg

421f596b.jpg

This will be interesting Jez!

What's the specs for that 34?

Stock neo motor with Type B poncams and adj exh cam gear, link ecu with flex fuel tune, hybrid manifold, mvr 44mm gate, id2000's plazmaman ffp, DVS dump and plumbback pipe. Hoping to have it running and tuned early next week. Depending if Link arrives and also waiting on plazmaman plenum to be finished.

I was wondering whether you got the new turbo in yet, guess I have the answer.

How much boost are you going to run do you think?

That i will have to see what the engine likes when im tuning it. I will see how confident i feel with the power output as its a stock motor. Also running stock cams atm. I would like to see the differences in stock cams then type B poncams. Then i will think about doing variable cam once i have to upgrade the headgasket.

Very nice, shame its a stock motor as its probably not going to be able to show its real strength. I am assuming its a ball bearing 6262, and you are going to tune for E85?

Yes both are ball bearing. My rb26 i am trying to get as much response as possible which is why i went twinscroll 6boost manifold and .8 twin scroll rear. My old steelwheeled highflows came on hard around 4500rpm ad made 307 so i am aiming to better that

Yes both will be tuned on E85. They are actually both going to be be flex fuel tuned.

We understand the stock motors will be the limiting factor but not going to build the motorS until the time comes

My old steelwheeled highflows came on hard around 4500rpm ad made 307 so i am aiming to better that

Yes both will be tuned on E85. They are actually both going to be be flex fuel tuned.

Nice, very interested to see where it comes in - I've always had it in my head the PT6262 would be on the laggy side, though never been sure. If it can be all in before 4500rpm then that'd be fantastic :)

Stock neo motor with Type B poncams and adj exh cam gear, link ecu with flex fuel tune, hybrid manifold, mvr 44mm gate, id2000's plazmaman ffp, DVS dump and plumbback pipe. Hoping to have it running and tuned early next week. Depending if Link arrives and also waiting on plazmaman plenum to be finished.

That i will have to see what the engine likes when im tuning it. I will see how confident i feel with the power output as its a stock motor. Also running stock cams atm. I would like to see the differences in stock cams then type B poncams. Then i will think about doing variable cam once i have to upgrade the headgasket.

Are you going to stick with 2.5" out of the IC into the plenum or go 3"?

3 inch is pretty big Roy, I usually use 3 inch out of the turbo on builds over 400kw, I know it supports at least 550wkw from a car I did recently... 2.5 inch should be fine mate for either side.

I also fabricated piping for a built STI Liberty in 2 1/4 alloy, it runs 280awkw. More important is the cooler end tank design imo.

Just curious, mine are 2.5" and the numbers suggest that for 590cfm it should be fine with 2.5", but as always its interesting that the RB26 and GTR run 3" std

I see what u mean Roy, we will find out soon but i dont think the 2.5 will limit the setup. I think the only thing that will limit the setup is the standard internals

Very nice, shame its a stock motor as its probably not going to be able to show its real strength. I am assuming its a ball bearing 6262, and you are going to tune for E85?

the engine will take allot of abuse with that turbo on e85.... :P just dont be scared. These turbos come alive at around 28-35psi.

the engine will take allot of abuse with that turbo on e85.... :P just dont be scared. These turbos come alive at around 28-35psi.

Stre180 sr20vet made 'apparently' 760rwhp on a 6262 .63 housing it would want to be a low mileage 26 to even make 600whp reliable.

Stre180 sr20vet made 'apparently' 760rwhp on a 6262 .63 housing it would want to be a low mileage 26 to even make 600whp reliable.

I agree it would want to be a "known" engine but really 600whp is a walk in the park especially for a few dyno runs....if it was my own personal car like it is with jez i would have no problem running it regulary at 400rwkw. We see this power quite often on std 26 engines on E85. I reckon in realistic power @ 35 odd psi 700whp is achievable with that setup but i would stay sub 30 on std bottom end.... i still find it difficult to believe that 760whp result with the 0.63 housing.

Interesting that you mention that, someone I know hit 400awkw on E85 at around 22psi with his unopened <100,000km old RB26 and coolant started escaping places it wouldn't, I had thought it should be reasonably safely doable too... good to know there are plenty of others which have done so fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...