Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Isnt this turning out a little excessive for sub 400kw?

I wonder why it needs so much flow, le hmm.

Sorry mate

Didn't realize I was spending your money,

Flow is no longer in question Jez have spoken with e85 guys and they believe it's related to the fuel heating up to much second pump is to help with said issue

I think what he meant by excessive was its seems odd that your fuel system isnt coping as well as others have, I dont think he was talking about cost.

Eg some people are getting enough fuel flowing to make around 360kw on e85 using a single 044 intank with standard fuel lines and you are having to add a surge tank, bigger lines and another fuel pump. Granted I dont think they are going to be putting out quite as much power as you when your tune is finished and they werent running as much boost, but still.

Edited by Mitcho_7

Sorry mate

Didn't realize I was spending your money,

Flow is no longer in question Jez have spoken with e85 guys and they believe it's related to the fuel heating up to much second pump is to help with said issue

Sorry WHAT?

Dont be so defensive like im mocking your hard earnt layout. Good luck to you, I hope your stuff turns out well, I message Jez on the regular and get updates on how your cars coming along. The way you replied to that is almost offensive.

Mitch above is on the money. Im simply curious as to why its needing so much flow, and in a perfect world that could have lead to discussion about what other people have flowed with what setup. Who knows, maybe a few great minds would have joined in and helped troubleshoot so you can find out whats going on.

Spending my money, pff.

I think what he meant by excessive was its seems odd that your fuel system isnt coping as well as others have, I dont think he was talking about cost.

Eg some people are getting enough fuel flowing to make around 360kw on e85 using a single 044 intank with standard fuel lines and you are having to add a surge tank, bigger lines and another fuel pump. Granted I dont think they are going to be putting out quite as much power as you when your tune is finished and they werent running as much boost, but still.

:no:

360kw with single pump is the limit.... Well 357 was the final SAFE number anyway

Standard fuel lines were all over and done with above 340ish.... I had to go bigger lines and modify the fuel tank hat...

:no:

360kw with single pump is the limit.... Well 357 was the final SAFE number anyway

Standard fuel lines were all over and done with above 340ish.... I had to go bigger lines and modify the fuel tank hat...

This I was not aware of

Standard fuel lines were all over and done with above 340ish.... I had to go bigger lines and modify the fuel tank hat...

GTR/GT-t = same last time i checked... Wonder how the GTR guys are getting 400rwkw+ through stock lines & E85 (with just a Nismo pump) :unsure:

GTR/GT-t = same last time i checked... Wonder how the GTR guys are getting 400rwkw+ through stock lines & E85 (with just a Nismo pump) :unsure:

I think its a lot to do with the fuel hat itself.... It was a restriction.... Hence the modification :)

355rwkw here on pump98 and single pump no restriction. and 335rwkw on eflex no restriction all stock lines and rail. in gtst.

Well i dont want to go dribbling shit without properly understanding it myself BUT on my car the fuel pressure was unsafe at 360kw, after the mods were done and it was rechecked the fuel pressure was spot on at 357kw so it was obviously a restriction...

GTR/GT-t = same last time i checked... Wonder how the GTR guys are getting 400rwkw+ through stock lines & E85 (with just a Nismo pump) :unsure:

My original post from page 30 said exactly that.

Then I edited it in fear of a flaming :P Thanks for putting it out there though, I knew I wasn't going mad.

GTR/GT-t = same last time i checked... Wonder how the GTR guys are getting 400rwkw+ through stock lines & E85 (with just a Nismo pump) :unsure:

Sydney is warmer than Mexico. We need stuff like 15 litre sumps and 3 fuel pumps. :woot:

Sydney is warmer than Mexico. We need stuff like 15 litre sumps and 3 fuel pumps. :woot:

Hahaha exactly.

Maybe this will make a few people scratch their heads.

9a9959c5.jpg

hehe :)

I'm a bit behind on reading all threads at the moment. Too busy, so i tend to miss post replies where I usually see most even pre-edit :P

Nismo outflows a 044. Im hoping my single walbro 400 will be ok otherwise i will mount a 2nd pump in tank

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...