Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4th gear stopping before limiter. I have alot of mechanical sympathy :)

Limiter is 8k. I like my stock rod bolts non stretched :D

Hmm. Something is up. 4th at 8000 RPM is 235 km/h and you're going to 190 ish km/h which is 6400 RPM. :S

Could the road speed on the dyno be wrong or something?

It's only my gay 4door gtt that needed so much fuel system work

But hey Can't complain with 367 @the wheels

At least your gay gtt runs ya kent :P stupid flex fuel!!

Nice result so far! Though to be fair I'm not sure if the PT6262 will really be showing its mettle yet, have you had any stock RB26 with a GT3582R on E85 on that dyno? That would make for a very interesting comparison

No i havent. This is the first single on rb26 on this dyno.

I wish i had a forged motor so i could run 35psi. I think it be close to 500kw

took it for a cruise to get some pizza. Without finishing the tune down low it drives very nicely. Below 3 very little boost. Above it picks up nicely.

So are the Precision turbos their own CHRAs or common with Garret. I am looking at either a FP73HTA with one of these housings but also considering a Precision turbo...but makes life easier it i can run one of these rear housings

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-075&Category_Code=

Has anyone worked out the rpm vs speed yet..?

How fun would that turbo be on a 3lt

PT6266 would be more fun :D There are quite a lot of Supras running them, they seem like a pretty brutal all around setup.

Off topic, Jez u get the pic etc? I have the same issue as Kurtis :(

Hey buddy, yes i got the pic. Very dissapointing i was sort of hoping it was an odd issue with Kurtis's car, but if its happened on a different car with another workshops setup makes it very annoying. Hopefuly warranty wont be an issue.

Txt sent

How does the turbo sound when your up it Jez?

I've been told they are rather quiet compared to most singles...

On the dyno from in the car with headphones on i couldnt really tell. U can definately hear it spool up like a jet when inside the car but i havent been incar with a similar setup so cant compare.

No i havent. This is the first single on rb26 on this dyno.

I wish i had a forged motor so i could run 35psi. I think it be close to 500kw

took it for a cruise to get some pizza. Without finishing the tune down low it drives very nicely. Below 3 very little boost. Above it picks up nicely.

No prob Jez , just put it onto mine and see what it will make :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...