Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok 5558 on built sr20 is now run in. Boost was uncontrollable due to a mixture of incorrect wastegate spring and a loose block off bung in the side of wastegate.

Went for a quick roadtest to check boost pressure with 8psi spring and its running 14psi. With a 4th gear foot flat 2500rpm pull was cracking gate at 3500-3700 (14psi)

Will tune as soon as i get some time

Ordering from the US is always better for service IMHO.

I used Real Street Performance on a few occasions and delivery was about a week on all orders. There was one odd time when they couldn't ship an item because it was missing a piece from the MFG (the value of non drop ship vendors). That was rectified fairly quickly by the vendor, the supplier was a little slow though and I ended up taking a payout instead. Item arrived at my door, missing the said gasket, within days of telling them to send as is.

They also sell PT's and pricing is as competitive as it gets.

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

Pics would be handy :)

6466 is now on the manifold, and i am now looking forward to cutting myself to bits doing the pipework lol! Also, just an FYI for you simon, you may have trouble with the outlet on the turbo if mounted on the greddy manifold as mine sits rearward moreso than the greddy items, so pipework may have to face directly downwards and do a 140 degree turn.

Pics of super snail!!!!

Sort your line out?

just waiting on a 12mm metric to -3 adaptor and i will have the oil lines sorted. The pressure pipework is going to be the next interesting part. The thing looks small compared to the 78-33d. It only just fits between the cam covers and the strut tower lol

Hey you guys with precision v-bands, re- the 3" outlet to dump pipe, -the v-band flange welded to the turbo doesnt have a seat for the female flange and the Performance Exhaust at Northmead guy told me I need to get a female flange milled to suit with the clamp and my turbine flange because most of the time the clamps are too wide and the dump has play in the joint . He said it will fit first time but not after if I just get an off the shelf vband flange kit. Is that correct and what you guys doing about that? Where and what size T3 spacers you using, theres some 11mm ones on ebay, mine is a 5558 to go on stock rb25 mani- low mount.

Last question- oil feed and return, any suggestions on fitting sizes and line lengths? Or just let the tuner (unigroup/jem etc) sort that out..

And how much u guys paying for fabrication work, and any recommendations? Pm me if you dont wana post on here, thanks :)

Edited by rondofj

I can preeeety safely say, if its unigroup, let them sort the oil line for you. The 6466 i have was supplied with a machined V-Band flange, looks the goods and mates up 100% primo. I suggest talking to the unigroup guys and leaving it in thier capable hands mate :)

Thanks man, ur lucky you got a flange n clamp supplied as the precision ones are different in size to regular vband flanges and dont seal properly according to the exhaust guy and on the web, can anyone else with this 5558 or other 0.63 vband turbo please tell me where they got their dump flange n clamp from?? And any pics of how the gates welded to the turbine? Thinking if i should point the gate sideways towards the firewall or up upwards like a hat. Turbo will be Low mount on stock rb25 mani

Edited by rondofj

Don't be stupid Paul, there are no compressor maps so they are rubbish.

Lol, not what I said... they are your words. But continue to misquote me to the benefit of being an internet hero.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...