Jump to content
SAU Community

Precision Billet Turbos

R32GTR/Iceland
 Share

Recommended Posts

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted

If you looking for a 3076R equivalent then go the 0.63/ 5558 which is what I did from research and Unigroup's advice, if you looking for bigger, then consider the 6XXX series...

I spent a heap of time comparing numbers on this also.

For memory when I looked at this (I dont have the numbers on me) the 6262/6266 are pretty much similar to a GT3540 and the Precision 6466 is somewhere between a GT3540 and a TO4Z# .

Obviously how these would drive will also vary based on the rear housing size/ split pulse or not etc.

  • Replies 3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SimonR32
SimonR32

The 6262 sillyness is never ending... New cams just got the most power and torque it's ever made

SimonR32
SimonR32
Mick_o
Mick_o

Dale is 100% correct its a well proven fact that smaller cams in RB's aid in response. Even going from a stock cam to a type b pon cam will cost you response. Been many track guys that have thrown the

Posted Images

Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
Posted

All the T3/T4 ones are, AFAIK.

If you got one of their garret copy items it would have a water cooled core (IE the T28/GT30 variant stuff).

I always assumed bb chra had oil and water cooling.

I guess no one has had many issues with it though.

What did you guys do with the water lines? Just link the feed to the return with a braided line or something?

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Tune all done, ran out of pump (fuel) top end so we stopped there but I'm fairly happy with how it went... May chuck another pump in and see how it goes but I'm happy for now :)

PTE 6262 on stock bottom end RB26 with a Greddy 1.2mm head gasket and Greddy drop in cams

20130113_143508.jpg

Edited by SimonR32
rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

Tune all done, ran out of pump (fuel) top end so we stopped there but I'm fairly happy with how it went... May chuck another pump in and see how it goes but I'm happy for now :)

PTE 6262 on stock bottom end RB26 with a Greddy 1.2mm head gasket and Greddy drop in cams

20130113_143508.jpg

Wow why u making so much power man- 450ish rwkw is it?? How much boost and no E85?

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

600hp at wheels? Very nice result gotta be extremely happy with that !!

Is that on caltex eflex ?

Sucrogen, we don't get E85 on pump over here :(

Wow why u making so much power man- 450ish rwkw is it?? How much boost and no E85?

About 450kw at the hubs yeah, boost is on the graph 1.6bar to beef up the mid range and 1.4 bar top end. It's running E85

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Awesome results mate. Hurry up and go to the drags :)

I considered cams :)

Hows it feel on the road?

Maybe, depends if I can be stuffed. Cams should make a bit more power, if you do cams I'll do another pump :)

Only drove it about it 200m, gave it stick in 1st and 2nd, held on... Was good!

What rear housing is on the 6262?

T4 0.84 divided

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Very nice power! Looks a bit laggier than a Gt3582r, which isn't really that bad news on a turbo that will make as much power as this if you tried pushing it :-)

We overlayed a few GT3582R graphs and they were similar response. Remember hub dyno makes things look lazier than a roller graph and the run was only started at 3000rpm so not much time to wind up the big girl. Could make big power with another pump though, would go close to 700 if we were crazy haha

The boost isn't falling over top end either, it's just we layed more boost into the mid range to beef up the torque. If we had held that boost through it would have run out of fuel (and probably make another 30-40hp)

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

We overlayed a few GT3582R graphs and they were similar response. Remember hub dyno makes things look lazier than a roller graph and the run was only started at 3000rpm so not much time to wind up the big girl. Could make big power with another pump though, would go close to 700 if we were crazy haha

The boost isn't falling over top end either, it's just we layed more boost into the mid range to beef up the torque. If we had held that boost through it would have run out of fuel (and probably make another 30-40hp)

sorry if ive missed it, wondering if that a stock bottem end?

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

We overlayed a few GT3582R graphs and they were similar response. Remember hub dyno makes things look lazier than a roller graph and the run was only started at 3000rpm so not much time to wind up the big girl. Could make big power with another pump though, would go close to 700 if we were crazy haha

The boost isn't falling over top end either, it's just we layed more boost into the mid range to beef up the torque. If we had held that boost through it would have run out of fuel (and probably make another 30-40hp)

Yeah it's pretty clear it has plenty more flow in it - no question of that, for the lag it'll make way more than a GT3582R. I am most familiar with hub dynos, and the .82a/r T3 single scroll GT3582Rs tend to be all on by around 4300-4500rpm so barely any more lag considering the extra power but I'd have guessed it to be noticeable.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Yeah it's pretty clear it has plenty more flow in it - no question of that, for the lag it'll make way more than a GT3582R. I am most familiar with hub dynos, and the .82a/r T3 single scroll GT3582Rs tend to be all on by around 4300-4500rpm so barely any more lag considering the extra power but I'd have guessed it to be noticeable.

Compared with the T88 it's noticeable haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...