Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

I woudnt expect the 6870 to take over in power till up near the 6466 is close

To tapped out

Which on 30psi is no where even close

Even a 6466 is only just to take over smaller frames on that boost..

Cheers

Darren

I agree with this.

Set a powergoal, identify maximum boost the engine can handle, and design around that. Given that we are still running relatively small displacement it needs to be done with boost or revs. I can't see running much more than 31 psi though! And if you are still on the map at redline carrying that boost then you need not increase size of compressor (turbine maybe).

Yeah but dynos are fickle creatures.

I made 496hp with a to4z on 23 psi and ran 142 mph when everyone was saying to4z's were dinosaurs.

With this motor I expect to only run 26-28 psi and hope for 150 mph with the 6870.

Later on when I build a big motor it will see 30+. What I liked about what the yanks were saying about this turbo is the fact I won't need nos to get an 1100hp turbo on the trans brake and potentially only marginally more lag than the to4z.

And at $2970. Bargain compared to a gtx42r.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...