Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, Griffin said:

Is that comparable to efr7670  /gt3576 ?

Impeller sizing on the PTE 5862 is very similar to the EFR 7670.

GTX 3576 runs a smaller turbine.

You'd think "broadly" comparable units, but they will all perform a little differently whether in-gear response, max flow, or boost recovery on gear changes.  Housing options in all cases would make a huge difference on those performance measures.

I'll be watching for results/impressions on the 5862.  V band turbine inlet, very nice :)

10 minutes ago, SiR_RB said:

Precision just released a new turbo model at sema,

7275 gen2, hopefuly start seeing some results shortly

At the 1000+hp mark, going to need something to stop it sucking the seagulls in!!

What application do you reckon Michael? - Strap one to a GTR and go Flying 500 at WTAC 2018, Snowy 1000 etc?

 

 

  • 3 months later...
4 minutes ago, SimonR32 said:

6262 still going strong. Makes very similar power on Mainline and Dynapack

20180228_170355.jpg

Bloody hell.  Mainline hub I'm assuming?

Either way, huge result - I know this might be a silly question and I don't mean to be a dick by asking it but I'm just interested in knowing your thoughts... are you 100% sure this isn't a 6266?  There are plenty of people making less than this with 6266s and even 6466s :O

2 hours ago, Lithium said:

Bloody hell.  Mainline hub I'm assuming?

Either way, huge result - I know this might be a silly question and I don't mean to be a dick by asking it but I'm just interested in knowing your thoughts... are you 100% sure this isn't a 6266?  There are plenty of people making less than this with 6266s and even 6466s

Yep, Mainline hub... First time using it, cool bit of kit and very consistent.

Funny you should ask (and I'm not insulted), I just mentioned to my mate who does a lot of work on the car yesterday how I wonder if somehow they managed to chuck a 6262 sticker on a bigger turbo. It's rated at 705hp but has done 766hp on a Dynapack with the correct correction and now 771hp on a Mainline hub. So god knows... In saying that I can't see it really being any bigger because it's making 15psi by under 4000rpm on the road in 1:1 ratio.

 

1 hour ago, azzada1 said:

Was that at the dyno day simon or private tune? I recall a softer ramp rate being talked about to help a certain au for the dyno day so just curious.. excellent result for the 62mm either way

Just did it yesterday, funnily enough a Falcon with 1100hp had just come off with a ramp rate that made my car sound like it was in 1st gear. We extended the ramp rate to a much more appropriate level 

  • Like 1
44 minutes ago, SimonR32 said:

Yep, Mainline hub... First time using it, cool bit of kit and very consistent.

Funny you should ask (and I'm not insulted), I just mentioned to my mate who does a lot of work on the car yesterday how I wonder if somehow they managed to chuck a 6262 sticker on a bigger turbo. It's rated at 705hp but has done 766hp on a Dynapack with the correct correction and now 771hp on a Mainline hub. So god knows... In saying that I can't see it really being any bigger because it's making 15psi by under 4000rpm on the road in 1:1 ratio.

 

Just did it yesterday, funnily enough a Falcon with 1100hp had just come off with a ramp rate that made my car sound like it was in 1st gear. We extended the ramp rate to a much more appropriate level 

Glad you got where I was coming from - was definitely not trying to be a hater or anything, just thinking through everything and I was fairly sure there was a decent chance the same thought process may have gone through your head too. 

I was pretty sure you'd mentioned the spool was pretty decent and that definitely seems good considering the kind of spool vs power that people used to put up with.  This is a .84a/r hotside eh?  What diff ratio do you have?

Here is a 4.3x drive ratio in 4th gear doing a similar pull with a 1.00a/r 6466 with purely wastegate spring boost control at 1bar (so 1bar happens later than it might with electronic boost targetting an appropriate boost level) and considering how much bigger it should be than a .84 6262 it doesn't necessarily look THAT much laggier.  

Could look at it that it's time for a 6466? ;)  You can see in the preview shot that it's already touching 10psi by 4000rpm and swinging up hard before the gate cracks

 

 

 

 

Edited by Lithium
46 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Glad you got where I was coming from - was definitely not trying to be a hater or anything, just thinking through everything and I was fairly sure there was a decent chance the same thought process may have gone through your head too. 

I was pretty sure you'd mentioned the spool was pretty decent and that definitely seems good considering the kind of spool vs power that people used to put up with.  This is a .84a/r hotside eh?  What diff ratio do you have?

Here is a 4.3x drive ratio in 4th gear doing a similar pull with a 1.00a/r 6466 with purely wastegate spring boost control at 1bar (so 1bar happens later than it might with electronic boost targetting an appropriate boost level) and considering how much bigger it should be than a .84 6262 it doesn't necessarily look THAT much laggier.  

Could look at it that it's time for a 6466? ;)  You can see in the preview shot that it's already touching 10psi by 4000rpm and swinging up hard before the gate cracks

 

 

 

 

0.84 and 4.11

Looking at logs I get 10psi in 1st at 4200 and 2nd at 3800

I've got a 15psi spring in my gate so I can potentially turn off my Mac valve and do a very similar run to that but on first looks it's a fair bit laggier. Assume it's a 2.6L?

 

Edited by SimonR32
7 minutes ago, SimonR32 said:

I've got a 15psi spring in my gate so I can potentially do a very similar run to that but on first looks it's a fair bit laggier

That'd be interesting for academia's sake but I believe you - there definitely should be a fair difference between the 1.00 6466 and the .84 6262 :)  

It's a hard result to argue with, nice work!

2 minutes ago, Lithium said:

That'd be interesting for academia's sake but I believe you - there definitely should be a fair difference between the 1.00 6466 and the .84 6262 :)  

It's a hard result to argue with, nice work!

Will grab some logs tonight. Because of the PPG 6 speed mine will sit almost dead inbetween between 4th and 5th compared to 4th in 4.3 so I'll do both and post average.

Should be interesting on weekend at Racewars, have 1000m run and I'm guessing I'll pick up a lot of speed from the sequential box. Best guess is around the 295km/hr region 

5 hours ago, SimonR32 said:

Yep, Mainline hub... First time using it, cool bit of kit and very consistent.

Funny you should ask (and I'm not insulted), I just mentioned to my mate who does a lot of work on the car yesterday how I wonder if somehow they managed to chuck a 6262 sticker on a bigger turbo. It's rated at 705hp but has done 766hp on a Dynapack with the correct correction and now 771hp on a Mainline hub. So god knows... In saying that I can't see it really being any bigger because it's making 15psi by under 4000rpm on the road in 1:1 ratio.

 

That dyno run puts a smile on your face, i watched it several times lol, what boost was that at?

Its funny how precision rate the power of the turbos, when i spoke with them they said compressor maps cost too much to produce so they use real world figures.

I went through the process with them and they spec the 5862 for my car which they rate at 700hp. Obviously uses the same size turbine as the 6262 but has a smaller 58-76mm compressor instead of 62-82mm.

Had been hoping to have mine together by now but its still a little way off, hopefully soon though

20180106_101538_resized.thumb.jpg.48bfe36122d1a610f507180c6fa7ee75.jpg

7 hours ago, SimonR32 said:

Will grab some logs tonight. Because of the PPG 6 speed mine will sit almost dead inbetween between 4th and 5th compared to 4th in 4.3 so I'll do both and post average.

300rpm better in the shorter 4th and more like 500-600rpm better in the longer 5th. From experience that would make a big difference to driveability.

10 hours ago, SimonR32 said:

Video of the run, about 8 sec by the looks

20180228_165754_1.mp4

Sounds yummy :) Great result!

Where are you getting it tuned these days? Need to find somewhere decent to go once I finish building my house and get my car back from storage.

3 hours ago, NEO25T said:

That was the turbo i picked until precision steered me to the 5862.

There was a 4 door r34 in the for sale section with the 6062 recently 407kw e85 25psi

Found it ? it even came off the same dyno as mine 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...