Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 01/03/2018 at 12:20 PM, SimonR32 said:

Should be interesting on weekend at Racewars, have 1000m run and I'm guessing I'll pick up a lot of speed from the sequential box. Best guess is around the 295km/hr region 

Only got to 291km/hr but with the 30-40km/hr headwind I'm going to say I probably would have gone over the 295 that I expected. Got a very fast ET as well considering it was on AD08R street tyres on an unprepped airport runway.

Fastest pass here being a 18.106 @ 290.8km/hr with a half mile of 15.672 @ 180mph. The quarter mile was logged via GPS at a 10.2 @ 144.1mph

 

 

Edited by SimonR32
  • Like 2

Was not dissapointed with the stock block warriors! How your car consistently beats all of the big hp pretty looking ozzy park workshop builds is beyond me haha, those quarter figures would surely improve on a preped track yes? 

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, azzada1 said:

Was not dissapointed with the stock block warriors! How your car consistently beats all of the big hp pretty looking ozzy park workshop builds is beyond me haha, those quarter figures would surely improve on a preped track yes? 

Would expect radials and motorplex to be a bit faster but who knows... I may get off my ass one day but need at least 18s to clear brakes

18 hours ago, azzada1 said:

Was not dissapointed with the stock block warriors! How your car consistently beats all of the big hp pretty looking ozzy park workshop builds is beyond me haha, those quarter figures would surely improve on a preped track yes? 

Why would it shock you mate? you pretty much summed up most workshop cars in your reply. They supposedly punch out big hp on a dyno but the track is a different story.... online warriors love dyno figures lol

  • Like 3

What size oil drain do you guys use?

Precision say minimum -10 which was supplied with the kit i got but after looking at the drain size at the base of the turbo it seems too small.

I didnt measure the factory turbo drain but from memory (which is terrible) it would be closer to -12.

Is this a case of bigger is better or will -10 be fine.

20180313_133413_resized_1.jpg.b067d59f8183c41550ec4abf2e9768af.jpg20180313_133823_resized(1).jpg.077e37861967d8349e37faa3fa342514.jpg

2 hours ago, burn4005 said:

i wouldn't worry about the drain on a precision, most of the oil goes out through the shaft seals.

So I run one, know several others that run them for years with no issues. Every time I see issues with seals it always appears to be install error

5 minutes ago, SiR_RB said:

Bigger drain the better on precision’s 

and no sharp bends or kinks 

I can run -12 drain flange on the turbo then use a -12 braid hose with a 45 degree fitting on the top end with a 90 degree on the bottom going in to the block just in front of the engine mount. Hose should be almost straight with only a slight bend. Might might have another look to see if i can use a 45 bend in the bottom of hose too but not sure if ill have clearance.

 

3 minutes ago, azzada1 said:

I also use an earls inline oil filter for the feed.. and be careful you dont accidentally turn the oil restrictor when tightening the oil feed line

Ok cheers thanks guys ill keep an eye on that, i think the kit came with -4 feed and turbosmart filter

Alot of people dont run the filter and dont run into any other issues either, But lets not pretend precision hasn't had its fair share of complaints and quality control issues.. I fit the filter for my own piece of mind and ended up having issues with the first motor and filter saved turbo.. my drain doesnt have any fittings just the push lock -12 i think it was and a nice curve to the block with heat sleave over it to make it last.. 

Edited by azzada1

i guess it probably helps that i don't leave the oil in the car for much more than 1000klms as the car doesnt get driven a lot. Its extreme, but when it sits for 6 months at a time and runs E85 we prefer to just swap out the oil and oil filter. 

NEO25 - its been a while since i worked on a Skyline but is there any way you can run the front oil drain from an RB26 on your engine? it would make the drain very easy to make up then

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...