Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 351
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

THEY ARE HERE!!

post-35676-1279846999_thumb.jpg

I'm going to quickly try and get them sent out today. They just arrived and all the correct kits appear to be here!

I will start packing them now and will PM every one with their tracking number. If I send them out today, they should get to every one Monday/Tuesday.

I just quickly want to thank every one for their patience and sticking with me through this. It was an absolute pain and I appreciate your guys patience very much.

Thanks :D

Phil

EDIT: Just in case some of you were wondering the differences between the GTR/GTST/GTT kits, here is a picture of them side by side respectively.

post-35676-1279849482_thumb.jpg

Some quick visual only observations from the kits (obviously the length of the lines is different).

GTR kit has mounting eyelets on the two longer lines and GTT kit has similar eyelets for all four lines.

GTT kit has right angle fittings on two of the lines.

GTST kit has rubber mounting block half way along the two longer lines.

GTT kit has no copper washers, GTR kit has two and GTST kit has four.

Edited by PM-R33

Well afer a few hours of work they are all ready to be sent.

post-35676-1279862456_thumb.jpg

This aint going to look half suss walking into Aus Post with this lol. I feel like a damn drug trafficker :P

Righteo they all got sent :D

Each individual kit has a unique ID number for warranty purposes inside, so if there is any dramas with them down the track let Hel know.

I will see if I get time this weekend to fit my kit and a friends and write up the DIY.

If there is any dramas with them not fitting let me know. There is plenty of people that were keen to get in on this group buy so you shouldn't have dramas selling the kit to them if they are wrong for your car or something. PM me if you want their details.

I may talk to the supplier about a future group buy if we can get a gaurantee it wont take as long as this one did. So perhaps look out for another group buy if you missed out or were chasing a clutch line kit.

Thanks again guys.

Phil

Edited by PM-R33

Top marks for seeing this one through mate.

Never thought it was going to be anywhere near this level of BS, but you got there.

Looking forward to receiving these :)

Thanks every one :P

I've nearly finished installing the front lines and so far it's fairly straight forward; other than having a seized bolt on one of the brake calipers :(. I'm also thinking a might buy a couple of those eyelets that come in the GTT/GTR kit to use, as the line has a bit of sag in it and even though it probably wouldn't be a problem, i'd like to mount it a bit better so i know it will never touch anything it isn't supposed to. I'll test this out a bit more tomorrow and come to a conclusion whether it would be worthwhile or not. I'm also not sure why the GTST doesn't have the right angle fittings like the GTT kit as I think it might better suit it, however maybe it would put to much of a kink into the next mounting location where that rubber mount is used, so that might be why, I dunno.

So far you can't really use any of the copper washers on the front setup (there was also none from the factory) so not sure if they are needed for the R33 or if all four are ment for the back :mad: but I will suss it all out and include all the info and pictures in the DIY tomorrow once I do the rears. So far pretty good.

Edited by PM-R33

i cant wait to recieve them .i said at the end will be ok loll

ask him for that cash dont be scared .that they promised . :thumbsup:

Edited by mark/1979

I found the rears a lot easier to install than the fronts. Having said that I did have a seized bolt on the front which made it a pain.

Anyway they are all done on my car I just have to bleed the brakes tomorrow.

I wrote up the whole DIY and uplaoded all the pictures (took me an hour and a half), posted the topic up in the DIY section and the f**king thing didn't post! So that's just bloody great. Can't you make topics in the DIY section or something?

Thankfully I saved all the text into Word but I still have to upload all the photos again which is a pain in the ass.

Anyway I'll try again tomorrow or something.

Edited by PM-R33

Hmm I was thinking that. Hopefully that is the case.

Anyway all you guys might receive the kits tomorrow, so start letting me know if they arrive successfully :(

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...