Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Phil, could you please PM me when your thread comes up in the DIY section or you upload that word doc? Quite keen to see how you did it.

  • Replies 351
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I've just received mine this afternoon, looks pretty good! But I wont be able to fit them for awhile... awaiting new brake rotors aswell.

P.S. have left a trader rating for ya

Got them today. Thanks for the effort. Will look forward to someone installing on his gtr and post the review on the DIY. Hopefully no dramas.

got mine as well yesterday .i notice not adr aproved label on them ??

Huh ;) I don't get what you mean, yours has a label that says "Not ADR approved"? Where?

I think he meant that there is no ADR approved label/stamped on them... if I remember right its meant to say ADR and have some numbers on it like it did on a rubber bit on the brake lines on my old R33.

it has "HEL FMVSS 106" on the black rubber, and the HEL logo on the yellow bit. nothing else
That's the bit you need for ADR approval ^

Correct.

Here is where I explained the ADR thing:

Ok so a few people (including myself) have been wondering how you can prove that aftermarket braided brake lines are legal for street use in Australia and whether the kits come with some sort of certification. Well after a bit of research there is a bunch of technical requirements and testing that they have to go through to get ADR approval, however the main proof for some one inspecting the brake lines is a boot with coding inserted onto each brake line to prove it has met all the requirements and makes them legal for street use.

Here is what the boot will look like on our brake lines to prove they are street legal. Therefore there is nothing to worry about. If any one has technical questions about this that I can not answer just give Hel in Australia a call.

HEL-FMVSS-106.jpg

You can also view on Hels website regarding the ADR sleeves at the bottom of this link:

http://www.helperformance.com.au/catalogue/brake-lines.htm

These sleeves are what held us up for so long.

Edited by PM-R33
Huh :) I don't get what you mean, yours has a label that says "Not ADR approved"? Where?

i am sorry for that i forgot that you told us how is going to be label .thats all good then :)

Also got mine on Monday.

The plastic package had popped open, though I think that may have been because the postie shoved it in my letter box, I never signed for it either....

All looked to be intact & undamaged so all good. Thanks again for the mamouth effort you put into this. Looking forward to getting these on my line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...