Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't its pretty flawed to be testing cars in neutral?

When the engine's under load obviously the exhaust note will be louder, and every engine has different load characteristics (more boost = more load etc...)

Wouldn't a more accurate test be to test a car's noise under load, not in neutral? lol Good one EPA...

Somethings not right there

Does anyone know if the ADM R32 GTRs had the same exhaust as JDM? Or did Nissan get some sort of low sales volume concession on the noise level issue? Otherwise I cant see how they could have sold them here legally....

It's hard to find a performance exhaust that is still quiet - I went for a Fujitsubo catback, metal cat and JJR bellmouth dump and it is still pretty quiet but flows a lot better than the stock system. I'm sure if you heavily modified it would pose a restriction but for light mods they are a good brand to go for. Mine has an oval centre muffler and a big oval rear muffler - there's a canon type but I'm sure it would be noisier.

The EPA laws for Vic are stupid - factory cars do not pass.

Just how it is.

Im sorry and you (not you personally) let them get away with this

f**k me id be taking it as far as i could go

If i had an engineers report that allowed my car to be road worthy with factory fitted exhaust and it failed an EPA noise level test later then someone or something is wrong

and its not me.

Id be calling my solicitor

Im sorry and you (not you personally) let them get away with this

f**k me id be taking it as far as i could go

If i had an engineers report that allowed my car to be road worthy with factory fitted exhaust and it failed an EPA noise level test later then someone or something is wrong

and its not me.

Id be calling my solicitor

If you can provide proof (e.g. receipts or part number on the parts) to the whole car is stock from factory I'm pretty sure you will win the case. Else, it'll just be too hard. Especially old/imports, I doubt theres one thats truly stock.

Those numbers are pretty surprising. I've got the TI-R on my 33GTR (only mod is catback, cat and pfc tuned to 250awkw) and its nowhere near 95dB or maybe it wasnt tested at 5100rpm. I might test it again just to confirm next time when I'm servicing the car.

If you can provide proof (e.g. receipts or part number on the parts) to the whole car is stock from factory I'm pretty sure you will win the case. Else, it'll just be too hard. Especially old/imports, I doubt theres one thats truly stock.

Those numbers are pretty surprising. I've got the TI-R on my 33GTR (only mod is catback, cat and pfc tuned to 250awkw) and its nowhere near 95dB or maybe it wasnt tested at 5100rpm. I might test it again just to confirm next time when I'm servicing the car.

Thats cool I still have a stock exhaust (somewhere that I can put back on even do comparisons as i'm pritty sure the after market one is quieter still) and can get part numbers easy enough so that, with the engineers report/rwc should make a very interesting court case.

It comes as no surprise we have similar problems back home sometimes.

Edited by jjskyline79
  • 2 weeks later...
When I was having my noise EPA taken off my car with a stock 33 gtst catback my car was hovering at 91 DB he was a shit bloke but ended up letting me go.

90db is very quiet

LOL shit bloke that's funny as...why was he shit?

anyone else got any stats for s14s?

Here you go mate. If your after an after market job it seems your only legal option is the Blitz Nur Spec.

Nissan Silvia

Stock Exhaust

Nissan Silvia S13 CA18DET - 87db

Nissan Silvia S13 SR20DET - 85db

Nissan Silvia S14 SR20DE - 87db

Nissan Silvia S14 SR20DET - 83db

Nissan Silvia S15 SR20DE - 87db

Nissan Silvia S15 SR20DET - 88db

----------------------------------------------------------------------

HKS Hi-Power 409 Muffler

S14 SR20DE - 94dB

S14 SR20DET - 99dB

BLITZ Nur Spec RX Muffler Exhaust System

S14 SR20DET - 90dB

S15 SR20DET - 92dB

HKS Silent Hi-Power Muffler

S14 SR20DE - 99dB

S14 SR20DET - 93dB

S15 SR20DE - 88dB

S15 SR20DET - 93dB

Trust GReddy Power Extreme II Muffler

S14 SR20DET - 98db

Edited by FrangaR33
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...