Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My favourite tool for a couple of years even if I don't use it that often. I feel so powerful holding it:

Sidchrome 1/2" 750mm long Breaker Bar

14948%20product.jpg

Think I got it for $80-90 including delivery. Probably got a receipt somewhere. My new favourites are gonna be ratchet spanners/wrenches when I get my own set. Been using a mate's and it is fantastic. Now I can't live without em.

attachicon.gifSump plug kit pic inside.jpg

For $30 at Supercheap can't go wrong. PS: the Teng one is on backorder, they have run out of stock. So sick of ruining 1/2 ratchet ends :)

What are Teng tools like? Always see them here and there for sale but never played with one. Are they decent? Somewhere in the vicinity of Kinchrome/Sidchrome quality?

Saw some crow foot spanners with their name on it a while back and thought I might ask here.

A simple little purpose built tool I made to Compress the piston in my R31 Rear Calipers.

(needs to be pushed in and turned, Clockwise for Passenger and Ant-Clockwise for Drivers side)

2 Sparkplug spanners and a bolt.

post-78856-0-75865500-1389484221_thumb.jpg

fits in here.

post-78856-0-49135600-1389484219_thumb.jpg

Works a Treat. :D

A simple little purpose built tool I made to Compress the piston in my R31 Rear Calipers.

(needs to be pushed in and turned, Clockwise for Passenger and Ant-Clockwise for Drivers side)

2 Sparkplug spanners and a bolt.

attachicon.gifDIY R31 Rear Brake Tool.JPG

fits in here.

attachicon.gifR31 S3 Rear Brakes.JPG

Works a Treat. :D

Love it, but what's the chances you'll loose it before having to change rear pads again! ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone suggest a good rivnuet tool/tool set.

Keep in mind I'm a wanker and like to have trade quality tools ready for me to use only once a year...

Was looking at something like this http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod1.asp?cat=2258004632 -thoughts?

Can anyone suggest a good rivnuet tool/tool set.

Keep in mind I'm a wanker and like to have trade quality tools ready for me to use only once a year...

Was looking at something like this http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod1.asp?cat=2258004632 -thoughts?

This one looks like a damn good set; and it has both alloy & steel nutserts. I use these inserts on everything now I have them.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/214-PC-BLIND-RIVET-NUT-RIVNUT-NUTSERT-TOOL-KIT-M3-TO-M8-/120760789836?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1de76b4c&_uhb=1

!C!O7TBwEWk~$(KGrHqQOKiwEzTEGN,lvBNCJr9L

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

btw very interested in this option too...anyone used this style? I like the price, small size, and don't care it might be slow when it's not used that often.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivnut-Rivetnut-Nutsert-Fitting-tool-M4-M5-M6-Kit-car-rivet-nut-special-insert-/171218249071?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dd67256f

  • Like 1

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

That Wurth kit looks good -their tools are generally quality too

btw very interested in this option too...anyone used this style? I like the price, small size, and don't care it might be slow when it's not used that often.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivnut-Rivetnut-Nutsert-Fitting-tool-M4-M5-M6-Kit-car-rivet-nut-special-insert-/171218249071?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dd67256f

I have one of these ones Duncan; as long as you lube the screw and ramps it works great, & will last fine for home use.

You can use it in very tight spots, which is why I ended up with it. :yes:

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

Like when you want to dodgy up a not so closed off 'cold air' box with aluminium? Or maybe I should stop being lazy and do some welding.

But on a serious note, this looks very interesting! Like maybe fitting undertrays and the works on your track cars?

Nutserts are awesome.

I use them on fibreglass shelled Lotus' and Radicals often, but use the deeper inserts with a washer on the back face (before being pulled), this stops the nut pulling through the fibreglass with time.

The Wurth stuff is expensive, but they do work well and are reliable.

NK7

If you have a working undertray, nutserts will not do, they'll pull through easily. A decent undertray will create well over 100kg of downforce and require mounting to decent chassis/subframe supports to reduce flex.

These are great for mounting stuff to sheetmetal, like boot mounted surge tanks and firewall mounted hose supports.

Mark :)

  • Like 2

NK7

If you have a working undertray, nutserts will not do, they'll pull through easily. A decent undertray will create well over 100kg of downforce and require mounting to decent chassis/subframe supports to reduce flex.

These are great for mounting stuff to sheetmetal, like boot mounted surge tanks and firewall mounted hose supports.

Mark :)

Ahh I see... so after a while they can wiggle loose? But still sounds great. And not overly expensive and reuseable!

Ahh I see... so after a while they can wiggle loose? But still sounds great. And not overly expensive and reuseable!

Heya NK7,

They won't wiggle loose if done correctly, but they're not designed to take big loads. I guess the specs would tell you different, but when you've got 100kg+ trying to rip the splitter off at speed and ripple strips slamming into the front corners under cornering, I'd prefer to use something a little more substantial (nut/bolt to chassis rails).

They're a great tool to have around and your mechanical will love working on the car with less ninja self tappers through firewalls and floorpans! Those farkers will tear you open at every chance they get...

Mark :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...