Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

with a standard rb25 head, external gate

what is the max boost it should run?

what revs can I expect full boost?

about what power?

the workshop is recommending against another china turbo against my better judgement....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329713-garret-3040-on-an-rb30/
Share on other sites

On a 2.5ltr i ran 17psi 270-280rwkw and it was on by 4000-4200rpm.

370rwkw on jungle juice @ 24psi... lots of room to move.

18-20psi with a 3ltr you should see ~330rwkw on PULP without a drama.

You'd take a rough guess it'll be on nicely around 3300-3500rpm with a 3ltr.

Lets see your china turbo do that you tightass accountant :thumbsup:

ive got a cheap china turbo on ny 30 atm (TO4e with a 0.62? rear) make 14psi by 2000 but then drops down to 10 as its physically chocking the exhaust. still makes 230rwkw at 10psi though.

im getting a GT35r for it now :thumbsup:

yeah china t04e is what I am running now. 260awkw @18psi. full boost at 2000. external gate, it holds boost perfectly all the way.

they break a lot which doesn't worry me...but the mechanic is trying to talk me into something more expensive.

hmmm. sounds like you done the same thing for the same reasone i have. its weird that urs is flowing fine, as my tuner had said boost issues with mine (using the ViPEC for EBC). My tuner is also the one pushing for a Garrett etc

conspiracy???

yeah china t04e is what I am running now. 260awkw @18psi. full boost at 2000. external gate, it holds boost perfectly all the way.

they break a lot which doesn't worry me...but the mechanic is trying to talk me into something more expensive.

try for a 3071?

a 3076 is seeing positive boost at 2000, so the 3071 should be better suited to your needs.

spend the money duncan by the time you replace your china turbos once a year you might as well have just bought a decent one :thumbsup:

spend the money duncan by the time you replace your china turbos once a year you might as well have just bought a decent one :ph34r:

pfft, 300 bucks and 30 min work. thats like 7 years worth :thumbsup:

spend the money duncan by the time you replace your china turbos once a year you might as well have just bought a decent one :)
pfft, 300 bucks and 30 min work. thats like 7 years worth :nyaanyaa:

yeah that's how the maths looks to me too....but I did commit to looking into something else. Strangely the turbo importer does not think they have to warrant the turbo when it fails ;)

Hi Duncan

I have one on the R33. You are welcome to try it out.

thanks mate....might do...standard capacity, head and cams right?

Get a GTT highflowed by Gcg that should do it.

I'll check out 3071 and hi flows I guess, maybe gtrs. I was assuming the hi flows and gtrs would be a little small on a 3l even for response, maybe not.

I wouldnt use a high flowed GTT turbo by GCG as the main benefit is the standard exterior for legal reasons. Sure its a reasonable turbo but for the cost of over $2k you can get a much better turbo.

I would be careful that you dont completely strangle the engine with a restrictive turbo, I wouldnt go any smaller than a 3071 on a 30. How bout a 3071 with 0.63 housing? That would be ridiculously responsive.

thanks mate....might do...standard capacity, head and cams right?

Standard RB25 cams etc (but HKS cast manifold). It would give you an idea of how it delivers power. Obviously the extra cubes is offset by the extra weight of the stagea so I would be a fairly close comparison.

I'll pm my number.

are you using a standard manifold??(exhaust) . i got a cheapy kkr 560 but was a rip off of one. im using an external gate (progate 45 mm on my 30)because the original one is opening at 20 psi. garret gt30/40's are now known as gt3082 .

Its got a china stainless zorst manifold and china front facing plenum as well.

From looking further there must be at least 2 or maybe 3 different turbos called 3040 because people mention .63 all the way to 1.02, and peak power ranges from 270 to 330. If I go one of these I'll make sure its the smallest one.

still looking into another china turbo too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...