Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's for the track only. Would it be classified as a semi-slick or full slick? Only doing track days at the moment, although I would like to be able to enter Time Attack and Supersprints etc.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

they are not CAMS approved semi slicks. http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_req/GQ06_Schedule_E_Q111.pdf

not the same hoosiers that we have seen in Aus before, they might be a new model no-one has requested yet

I've been enquiring about bringing over some Nitto NT-01s through Price USA from Discount Tire Direct. NT-01s are the same compound as Toyo R888s with a more aggressive pattern. They work out at $280 ea posted in a 255/40/17 which is the same price as Federal RSRs here.

I've been enquiring about bringing over some Nitto NT-01s through Price USA from Discount Tire Direct. NT-01s are the same compound as Toyo R888s with a more aggressive pattern. They work out at $280 ea posted in a 255/40/17 which is the same price as Federal RSRs here.

If the NT-01's perform anything like the R888, you're probably better off with the Federal RSR IMO.

I had a set or R888s on the 180SX. They were the worst performing semi I've ever used. By a country mile.

Edited by hrd-hr30

I had a set or R888s on the 180SX. They were the worst performing semi I've ever used. By a country mile.

what where you using them for? and what was the problem you had with them? Were they new ones or used?

They are the grippiest tyre I have ever used.... however I was using them for motorkhana on concrete on a 1200kg car. My only complaint was they had too much traction - I could not throw the front end a full 180 deg with them on. They had a lot more traction that my Federal RS's - I haven't tried RSR's yet, hopefully they are a bit softer and have more grip from cold.

My understanding is if you are doing circuit work with them it needs to be light (or 'over tired') car, otherwise they get too hot and go off. For short sprints, hill climbs etc they seem to work very well.

Edited by samstain

what where you using them for? and what was the problem you had with them? Were they new ones or used?

They are the grippiest tyre I have ever used.... however I was using them for motorkhana on concrete on a 1200kg car. My only complaint was they had too much traction - I could not throw the front end a full 180 deg with them on. They had a lot more traction that my Federal RS's - I haven't tried RSR's yet, hopefully they are a bit softer and have more grip from cold.

My understanding is if you are doing circuit work with them it needs to be light (or 'over tired') car, otherwise they get too hot and go off. For short sprints, hill climbs etc they seem to work very well.

grippiest tyre compared to what though? have you tried A050s or DZ03G or RE55s? comparing them to federal RS of course they will be better. they should be better than the RSRs too. but for a supposed proper semi they underperform pretty badly. for instance on an R35 GTR which was the last time I used a set they were slower around oran park (RIP) than the standard dunlop high performance road tyres.

No I haven't tried the A050s or DZ03G or RE55s, but I would expect a GG r888 to be gripper than a RSR - especially from cold - to say the 888 is 'the worst performing semi' and not as good as a RSR is a bit out there I would have though without a bit of background on where it was being used.

It depends what you are using them for and the power/weight/tyre size it has...

Fair enough 888's on a high power GTR doing multiple circuit laps are probably going to over heat and go off unless driven very accuratally, however if its a light or underpowered car they can work very well. Likewise if your doing hill climbs and autocross type events they come on very early where as and RSR can take at least a few hard corners to come on - at motorkhana the only time I really got the federals to perform was when my brother was sharing the car with me (2 spots up the queue) and it was a +30deg day.

I had a brand new set of 225/50r16 888's on my S14 for a while and the traction was unbelievable - with careful throttle control it would launch as hard as my brothers 99sti, where as even when new, the RS's were no better than a good road tyre when cold (hopefull the RSR's are slightly better).

anyway, im in the market for new tyres at the moment - tirerack do not do anything suitable for what I want (unless I change to 16" rims in which case I can get AO48's), what other online stores do resonable postage to aus? or has anyone had any luck with forwarding services?

Also, how have people gone with build dates - perhaps in the states turn over is large enough that is isn't a problem, but I'd hate to get supplied 4-5 year old tyres such as what often comes up on ebay in aus.

Edited by samstain

the point is, RSR is not a semi slick, and Toyo 888 is. The Toyo should be significantly faster than RSR, especially if you are using the soft compound.

Federal's semi slick is FZ201.

the point is, RSR is not a semi slick, and Toyo 888 is. The Toyo should be significantly faster than RSR, especially if you are using the soft compound.

Federal's semi slick is FZ201.

yep and he was comparing them to the RS which is another step below the RSR. the RS is just a road tyre with the RSR being the kind of 'cross over' high performance road/almost a semi slick type tyre.

either way of the proper semi slicks out there the R888 is way down the list. yes on light cars around 1000kg they perform fairly well but we are talking TRACK (circuit) tyres for skylines (1300kg-1600kg) with anywhere from 250hp to 800hp. the 888s are just not suitable.

I don't know of anyone having trouble with old stock from tyre rack. they are pretty reputable. but you're right, you need to watch out for people shifting 4 or 5 year old tyres as 'new' simply because they haven't been used yet.

The RS is just a road tyre with the RSR being the kind of 'cross over' high performance road/almost a semi slick type tyre.

The only differnece between the 2 is a slightly softer compond (180 V's 140 tread wear from memory) and a slightly stiffer sidewall on the RSR - that and the fact that the RS's are no longer made as far as I am aware, they were superseeded by the RSR a couple years ago. You might be thinking of the SS for thier 'just a road tyre'.

Edited by samstain
  • 2 weeks later...

Has anybody tried the federal semis?

I;ve been running a set on the race car and they have been very good. hard to tell if they are better than the dunlop without back to back testing on the same day on new tyres....but I'm happy enough (especially since the price is sensible) that I will keep using them.

they are not generally available yet, hopefully they will be sooner rather than later!

like i said, I haven't run them back to back with the dunlops...

I have run the Federal Hards back to back with the Kumho Mediums, they were 0.3 sec slower at Morgan Park (1.20min lap).....very good result against one of the best softer tyres IMHO

  • 2 weeks later...

3 years sounds like the edge of acceptable to me. I would be very unhappy if they are track tyres, roadies are probably ok for 3-5 years.

in practice, the amount of light and heat where they are stored are more important than time, but you obviously don't know how they were stored.

and with track tyres, the number of heat cycles (times you have raced on them) is more important than time or storage

The more tyres people buy from the US, the more expensive tyres in Australia will get. You need to support the Australian official importers of the tyres because the more they buy from Japan, the cheaper they can get them for which is why they are cheaper in the US. The more you buy from the US, the cheaper US prices will get in comparison to Australian prices. I really wish stoogebags would stop doing this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...