Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OS Giken 3.0 litre kit for around the $20K mark. But there are bigger kits than this..........Spool was looking at a 3.2 and a 3.4 kit.
$20K!!!!

or Rb30 for $200 (or realistically $5 to $10k fully forged and balanced etc)

Charlie still has his apexi 2.9 kit for sale.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...B2-t285391.html

There is also some company out there that is de-stroking rb30 cranks to 83mm, running standard rb26 rods and custom pistons to make an RB29.

User 'Mark99' on this forum was the machinist that developed the stroker kit from memory. I cant remember what the company was called though.

Charlie still has his apexi 2.9 kit for sale.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...B2-t285391.html

There is also some company out there that is de-stroking rb30 cranks to 83mm, running standard rb26 rods and custom pistons to make an RB29.

User 'Mark99' on this forum was the machinist that developed the stroker kit from memory. I cant remember what the company was called though.

I think he worked for Rhemac in Adelaide.

the 3.2 and 3.4l kits by spool are for rb30 blocks not rb26

Yep, not sure if they will adapt to 4wd, but I'm pretty sure it has been done for the rb30. But I've got a funny idea that the 3.2/3.4 crank throw will not allow the 4wd front housing.............did I read it or am I dreamin' - can somebody correct me???

RB30DET FTW!

That RB31DETT will just be a slightly overbored RB30.

Nitto do the 3.2L kits for RB30 (soon?)

Spool do the 3.4L kits for RB30 (soon)

And I think RIPSNZ do a 3.2L aswell?

OR save your money and just built an RB30DET.. you'd only need the extra 200-400cc if running a HUGE turbo.

P.S. I love my 30 :(

Edited by bubba

love the comments on the rb31 block

i read his thread the other day

he has made it an rb26 open deck with new sleeves, rods and pistons and an rb30 crank

give a better bore-stroke ratio or something and is designed for driveability, torque and response

he has put a lot of work into it but its still in testing and will eventually be on sale once everything is tested thoroughly

on topic, if you want more displacement then you can't look past an rb30 with the 4wd adapter

r.i.p.s in nz will make you a forged bottom end with the adapter and ship it to oz, bolt it in, add your head and away you go

There are a few places now that do a RB30 adapter to run awd. Id say get a dirty 30 bottom end and a Nitto 3.2 crank. They say its good for 1200hp and 10,000rpm.

i like the sound of that.... on the other hand the sound of the price mite not be so good. haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...