Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

No problem. Appreciate you looking for me though.

 

Start new job in January....will be good to be back in Melb, no more 70hr weeks at a start up...normal programming shall resume. 2023...hopefully my 18yr quest of a teen at Sandown is realised :)

  • 3 months later...

So just got back from a few days in Tassie.  Was a great trip that included some laps at Symmons Plains and Baskerville

 

Finally started to get the car sorted, though the borrowed GoPro proved to be less than great

 

https://youtu.be/5oVTdOG7svM

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...

And Symmons Plains vid. God I was losing time under brakes and off the start finish straight. Tough place to work out whether its 2nd or 3rd. Anyway...good fun. Baskerville was better seat time and started to get my head around driving the girl after years of little driving

 

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

Of course. Never getting rid of the old girl. Sandown went well yeterday. Definitely need some new tyres as they are rather square now :)

PB with a 1:19.77

Not happy with the 4.1 diff and need to go back to 4.3 ratio. But good to be consitently getting some laps in the car as I still suck 
 

 

 

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Its a shitbox too...The Motec and EFR sitting on the bench will hopefully help it break more driveline parts :)  Christ, had it 12 years . Time for another English shitter

I should actually swap beakes. 370mm 6 pot APs for street car and 343mm 4 pot on club car!?!?!? 🤔

 

FB_IMG_1688794769655.jpg

FB_IMG_1688795017934.jpg

FB_IMG_1688795165155.jpg

  • Like 3
17 hours ago, Roy said:

I love my old school Weds but having used a set of Pagid RS29s and rotors down to 30.5mm after only really 8 track days I think it's time for 18s :(

 

20230507_160232.jpg

Nope, keep the purity wheels and just change pads when you need to. Depending how many session you did, 8 days is a lot of work.

Plus, tyres in 17s are cheaper and more compliant than 18s for the same diameter.

Yeh,  I found a place that does 68 vane 343mm rotors so hoping going from 42 to 68 with some better ducting will keep them alive

 

For all those reasons I have kept the 17s Uncle Dunc....32s just don't look as good with 18s. But the 343mm does limit the 17" wheels you can run to basically LM GT4, TE37s or Weds TC

You Bathursting this year?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...