Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would go for a digital dash like a Race Technology one and run it off the ECU sensors

Is this the dash you are talking about? I'm using a Vipec, can it plug in directly to that?

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

also install my nismo brake master stopper yesterday and dam it makes a huge different to my pedal makes me think my brake masters might need replacing. pedal is very firm now and as soon as i touch the pedal the brakes work unlike before were there was no initial bite

few updates bought some more parts....

ARC Radiator (had no plans to upgrade but this was so ridiculously cheap couldn't past it up)

Std GTR lip

Blitz EBC SBC-3

Nismo rear bushes for shock mounts

ohh and my hks front pipe arrived today 2x70mm -> 80mm; fits the tomei dumps very nicely

jg3dci2000img600x402128.jpg

impacy2thimg600x4361284.jpg

grabnr32img600x33712818.jpg

The factory tank does a very good job, is mounted well for weight distribution, and has enough capacity for quite a few laps, even on E85....... Hi Octane 32 GTR still runs the factory tank.

Hi Ben,

Do you know what spring rates the R32 runs ?? There's been some discussion on here re spring rates, I'm pretty sure Mark used to run fairly stiff rear springs to stop the front wheels from lifting ?? Probably diff. setup now with Russ driving though.... :-)

cheers,

JB

Well, it had 450/350 (Yes, softer than I run in my Targa 32 GTS!) in it until last weekend when we doubled the rates and had Murray stiffen the shocks to match...... it was terrible around Lakeside, but it also lacked any form of undertray and was porpoising in the front. First time the car's ever understeered. (Same Whiteline bars on soft set, messed about during the day but made no real advances)

With the old springs in it, as you may know it would actually lift the inside front exiting corners, but was a dream handler..... very forgiving and lots of traction. Still seems to be the preffered setup, but time and some sorting may change that.

Edited by Marlin
Would just like to confirm some details regarding tyres and rims.

The best size for track rims would be 17x9.5 +15 ish? correct

and for semi-slick best size selection im like 255/40/17? (do i have to run same size front and back?)

A 255/40/17 will foul the rear guards in an RE55 tyre on a +22 offset. Mine did anyway. So it will get ugly in a +15.

The front is a bit different. With the amount of neg camber you need to run you will probably get away with a wider offset than a +22.

Bridgestone recommend a 9" rim for a 255 bag tyre - you don't have to use drift tyre/rim sizing combinations....

Check also that a 17" rim will clear your brake rotor/calliper. 17" usually means 3345 rotor at maximum unless you are carefull with calliper & rim selection.

Well, it had 450/350 (Yes, softer than I run in my Targa 32 GTS!) in it until last weekend when we doubled the rates and had Murray stiffen the shocks to match...... it was terrible around Lakeside, but it also lacked any form of undertray and was porpoising in the front. First time the car's ever understeered. (Same Whiteline bars on soft set, messed about during the day but made no real advances)

With the old springs in it, as you may know it would actually lift the inside front exiting corners, but was a dream handler..... very forgiving and lots of traction. Still seems to be the preffered setup, but time and some sorting may change that.

Wow, doubling is a big call! it also blows out the difference in front/rear by another 100lbs hence the understeer I'd reckon..

450/350 is softer than I recalled - thanks Benny.

The factory tank does a very good job, is mounted well for weight distribution, and has enough capacity for quite a few laps, even on E85....... Hi Octane 32 GTR still runs the factory tank.

Slightly off topic, but, Marlin... do you know if either of the HiOctaneRacing GTR's use Tomei intake and exhaust valves (+1.0mm) as well as most of Tomei catalogue?

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...