Jump to content
SAU Community

Worst Dyno Results Ever ?

djvoodoo

By djvoodoo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
as per my quote, ER34 ECU has excess airflow and boost protection, ECR33 ecu does not, so you are hitting the map sensor cut

and there is no R34 GTST

R34 GTT

R34 GTV

R34 GTR

etc

Yea cool cool, point taken. I'll take it like a man and admit I was wrong about the model badging.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Lo boost on Greddy - gain 28% set gain 13% Start gain .46 gives me about 7.3 peak boost

Hi boost on Greddy - gain 38% set gain 18% start gain .55 gives me about 9.3 peak boost

Running "lo" boost is fine

Running "hi" = what you see on the dyno charts

Classic result of stock ECU interference. Get yourself an aftermarket ECU.

Weapon Mentor

Weapon

Posted
Posted

lol had same result with my old R33 GTST, made all of 99rwkw with a power line that looked like it was attached to a pogo stick... after market ecu in and hey presto 191rwkw and a much nicer driving car :down:

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

but there is a clear difference here

R33 has excess air flow cut

R34 has excess air flow cut and map sensor protection

you need to avoid both or "clamp" both to get the normal power gains when you add more boost

ie an safc or a piggyback to work around the excess airflow is ok, but the stock map sensor protection will still fire

run the map sensor protection into an expose vac line (so it always reads ambient pressure and never changes) and crimp the line (to stop vac leak)

that way when you boost it up, the ECU looks at the map sensor and only ever see's ambient pressure so it should never fire the excess boost protection

Toshi Proficient

Toshi

Posted
Posted

I remapped ecu for his car today and his problem fixed.

But his car is air leaking from somewhere so still AFR rich.(leaking noise from engine bay.)

I think around FMIC pipe.

Map sensor boost limiter start at 14psi.

So std turbo do not need remove limiter.( I think safer for std turbo)

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

mapping the car was a mistake.

why map a a car with a boost leak? the turbo is obviouly running flat out to try and keep the boost up as well.

then once he fix's the boost leak, usually the owners dont change any mapping or even get the car looked at... whats going to happen to the engine then ?

you should get the boost leak fixed then get toshi to check his tune. IMO

Toshi Proficient

Toshi

Posted
Posted
mapping the car was a mistake.

why map a a car with a boost leak? the turbo is obviouly running flat out to try and keep the boost up as well.

then once he fix's the boost leak, usually the owners dont change any mapping or even get the car looked at... whats going to happen to the engine then ?

you should get the boost leak fixed then get toshi to check his tune. IMO

He does not know ecu problem or another problem.

So I install remap ecu to his car then go to road test.

His problem is fixed by remap ecu.

But big air leak noise from engine bay on freeway.( he say this noise after install FMIC)

Also AFR very rich.

So I install base remap data to ecu this time.(did not tune)

My feel around 30KW more than before.

He will fix air leak his self ( because FMIC fitted his self) then he will come back to me for re tune ecu.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
R34 has excess air flow cut and map sensor protection

What does it sound/feel like when it hits map sensor protection?

I am running a bigger turbo with 18psi but still on my standard turbo 10psi tune so am being very careful until its tuned. I gave it a little bit and it made a bit of a 'pop' noise. Was a little worried but everything feels fine afterwards.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
What does it sound/feel like when it hits map sensor protection?

I am running a bigger turbo with 18psi but still on my standard turbo 10psi tune so am being very careful until its tuned. I gave it a little bit and it made a bit of a 'pop' noise. Was a little worried but everything feels fine afterwards.

pop can be lean so take it easy :P

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Airleak seems to fit well. The measured airflow would have been much higher than the 9psi boost would suggest. Hence getting well into the rich & retard zone of the standard map.

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Airleak seems to fit well. The measured airflow would have been much higher than the 9psi boost would suggest. Hence getting well into the rich & retard zone of the standard map.

Yea taking off all intake pipework and cooler pipework this afternoon. Will check all vac hoses and exhaust gaskets too. Will even try installing the SMIC and put the standard BOV back on too. I hope it's something very simple and easy.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
I am running a bigger turbo with 18psi but still on my standard turbo 10psi tune so am being very careful until its tuned. I gave it a little bit and it made a bit of a 'pop' noise. Was a little worried but everything feels fine afterwards.

Driving it at all is stupid if you've changed the turbo and more than doubled the airflow. Don't get it on boost at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...