Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

VN is actually the fastest Holden 6 ever made lol

VN's are soo disgustingly ugly imo...

I was talking about power to weight, VN is 125kW to 1300kg (96kW per tonne), VS is 147kW to 1385kg (106kW per tonne). VS also has better economy, IRS (optional) ABS, airbags etc.

VN: http://redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.as...id=129F692865E0

VS: http://redbook.com.au/used-cars/details.as...id=129F692865E0

edit: VS II's are even better at 1372kg or a ute at 1350kg (possibly sacrifice handling...)

Edited by SKiT_R31
Stock for stock?

Highly doubt it on a track, unless we're talking about some track without straights.. FWIW, NA 6 speed JZA80s can manage 0-100 in 6secs.

I don't...

I had a stock R33 GTS-T (Note the TURBO!) and I was running 0.2 - 0.3 seconds slower then a Honda Civic at Wakefield... And just to put it in the ball park, he was doing mid 1:14...

I'd go the MX5 or Civic...

Remember bathurst? The minis were banned because the V8s could only catch them down the straights... Through the corners they just pulled away... Same thing the MX5 and Civic does...

I didnt say mx5 or s13 cause the op said power... lolz

Monetary figure is important here... Best bet is R32/R33/R34 RB25DE or a NA Supra if you wanted to bring common sense into the equation...

Heh, by power I meant something with a little go. A 1.1L Daihatsu whilst light and nimble will be useless with its 20seconds 0-100kph acceleration.

I have had a bit of fun lately in a hotted up Fiat 124... Cheap to buy, cheap to mod, reliable, light, handle brilliantly and you can do whatever you want later on - turbo, supercharge, V8 - because they are such a popular chassis to modify. Pick the 1800cc over the 2000cc for some added value.

EDIT: Oh and they have an all alloy, twin cam, twin carb (dellorto), five bolt main four cylinder... Pretty damn good in my book and SR20's fit in so easily its not funny - they even look the same as the fiat/alfa engine!

DOUBLE EDIT: Plus its Italian so the chicks will love it and you will have many happy sexy fun times...

Edited by R33_Dude

always had a soft spot for the Fiat 124bc.

or this, my uncle has one as a rally car that he hires out (Abarth replica)

97458d1207187590-wanted-fiat-131-brava-131-abarth-2.jpg

Mind you, good luck finding even a 4 door in good nic :D

the OP didnt mention what level or type of track use (from what i could see). Overall the mx5 is probably the best option but there's the question of whether you'd want it as your daily. On the plus side there's lots of support for them, plenty around that havent been in the hnads of 17 year olds and they have their own race series - something that is a big issue if he wants to go beyond the odd casual trackday.

Some of the front wheel drive cars would do well but are out if he wants to get out on a skidpan or try drifting (in an NA?) so maybe we need more info.

I'd get a 300zx you will learn more from it it will probably be in an unrepairable crash.

I have a great suggestion best find out where it was purchased from before mentioning.

simlpy because i cant believe the price.

remember your p-plate days thinking your invincible til something actually goes wrong.

also i don't think racing at a track makes you drive any more docile on the street.

you would be saving money by having a track dedicated car by taking someone else's work.

http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=15217

I'd get a 300zx you will learn more from it it will probably be in an unrepairable crash.

I have a great suggestion best find out where it was purchased from before mentioning.

simlpy because i cant believe the price.

remember your p-plate days thinking your invincible til something actually goes wrong.

also i don't think racing at a track makes you drive any more docile on the street.

you would be saving money by having a track dedicated car by taking someone else's work.

http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=15217

<insert engine out joke here>

My bet:

Mini Cooper S (Replica) or a Leyland Clubman GT (replica). Both cheap cars to build. Parts are cheap and plentiful. Can be hideously quick in good hands. Very good car to learn about engines, handling, driving techniques in. Easily modified. Good on fuel. Chicks love em (though getting it on in one can be a lesson in yoga).

Loved my race Cooper S (replica)... Building another now and looking out for some to sit in the shed as spares.

post-43534-1287017590_thumb.jpg

I'd get a 300zx you will learn more from it it will probably be in an unrepairable crash.

I have a great suggestion best find out where it was purchased from before mentioning.

simlpy because i cant believe the price.

remember your p-plate days thinking your invincible til something actually goes wrong.

also i don't think racing at a track makes you drive any more docile on the street.

you would be saving money by having a track dedicated car by taking someone else's work.

http://my105.com/classified.asp?id=15217

You will learn heaps about the VG engine because you will always have to take the engine out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...