Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 8/10/2016 at 11:48 PM, VFRegal said:
Yes please. I have the TS 7163 IWG on SR20. Interested in others results.

Cheers

It is on a single scroll manifold I think and stock camshafts, solid lifter conversion to head, will be on E85.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, acsplit said:


We don't care about peak power, how does it drive?

Only going off the info I had on hand at the time (an email that came through).  How does it drive? Can't comment on how it drives now but as it was said earlier, "un optimised" it was a significant improvement in every way compared to the -5's. That's been said a few times now though so it's going to be interesting to see how much it's improved again in its finished state.

10 hours ago, HarrisRacing said:

Treadstoneperformance (TRE) you can weld 3" on the inside of theirs and 3.5" on the outside.

3" assembly:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68259&cat_key=613&prodname=Borg+Warner+EFR+Turbine+Housing+V+Band+Clamp

Both 3 and 3.5" flange:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=2542&prodname=Borg+Warner+EFR+Turbine+Housing+V+Band+Flange+3.5%22+Downpipe

I would not waste my time going 3" again

Nah, exhaust is sorted and am getting 3.5" made, was wondering about the compressor outlet flange, if you hack the end off its a vband, but not all v bands are created equal, (eg one my fabricator has bulk sets of has rubber sealing rings), just trying I figure out what people have used with success.

40 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

Nah, exhaust is sorted and am getting 3.5" made, was wondering about the compressor outlet flange, if you hack the end off its a vband, but not all v bands are created equal, (eg one my fabricator has bulk sets of has rubber sealing rings), just trying I figure out what people have used with success.

CC73D353-13A2-46CB-896D-95600D961DC0_zps

Thats what Hypertune did on mine, Pete. 2.5 inch to 3 inch 90 degree elbow.

  • Like 1
On 11/08/2016 at 8:41 AM, Piggaz said:

CC73D353-13A2-46CB-896D-95600D961DC0_zps

Thats what Hypertune did on mine, Pete. 2.5 inch to 3 inch 90 degree elbow.

Careful...you will break down on the last lap of a race like Toyota at Le Mans when you use Wiggins clamps :)

 

Looks neat. A friend who has owned a few ex Gibson cars say that over time they can vibrate open so not a bad idea to just put a cable tie around them. Seems odd but i am not going to argue as mine are all hidden by diffuser etc and not accessible and be a head fark if they ever opened.

  • Like 1
On 8/10/2016 at 8:14 PM, Piggaz said:

Nicks car just in.

-5's 424 rwkw at 24 psi 

8374 1.05 462 awkw at 24 psi.

Same setup, same engine. 3.0, 9.0:1 comp, 260 poncams. No graph yet.

Wind it up to 32 psi mate - should see 500-520kw :D

I'm gagging for those SR20 results. A fair few results on SR22DET or SR20VET or SR22VET.... but not much with a more 'simple' smaller cam, standard-ish SR20det setup. Would love to see what poncam, e85, t4 ts mani and EFR 7163 would look like (graph)

Ok here are some results.

SR20DET, forged bottom end, sold lifter conversion stock cams I think or maybe baby ones.
EFR 7163 IWG on old school manifold not sure if twin scroll, T4 twin scroll exhaust housing ( not sure of size)
E85 run in tune made 270rwkw @19 psi, 305rwkw@25 psi. Makes 16psi @3000 rpm and looks like it is a response monster.

I think the owner will get it back to shake it down before they lean on it anymore as it's a fresh motor.

20 minutes ago, acsplit said:

Ok here are some results.

SR20DET, forged bottom end, sold lifter conversion stock cams I think or maybe baby ones.
EFR 7163 IWG on old school manifold not sure if twin scroll, T4 twin scroll exhaust housing ( not sure of size)
E85 run in tune made 270rwkw @19 psi, 305rwkw@25 psi. Makes 16psi @3000 rpm and looks like it is a response monster.

I think the owner will get it back to shake it down before they lean on it anymore as it's a fresh motor.

Sounds good. Would love to know if you could confirm manifold and cams being used. Was expecting a LITTLE more if it's a T4 TS mani. SR20's do love a cam increase, so will hurt it alot if running stock cam.

 

Got a dyno sheet?

It was a manifold built 15 years ago so I doubt it is split pulse. No dyno sheet yet.

I also assume the ignition is very light on for this run in tune, also don't know how good the exhaust is as it's 15 years old (but has only done 5000 kms)

On 12/08/2016 at 11:52 AM, MaximuSmurf said:

I'm gagging for those SR20 results. A fair few results on SR22DET or SR20VET or SR22VET.... but not much with a more 'simple' smaller cam, standard-ish SR20det setup. Would love to see what poncam, e85, t4 ts mani and EFR 7163 would look like (graph)

stock sr20, 260 procams, E85. TS T4 7163 IWG on fullrace mani and dump.

Boost issues.

dyno2.jpg

stock sr20, 260 procams, E85. TS T4 7163 IWG on fullrace mani and dump.

Boost issues.

dyno2.jpg


Dropping boost on top? Mine was on the medium cannister. It's almost as if these things should ship with high boost cans factory. Was cool to see my car make 376 whp on 11 psi though!
23 hours ago, HarrisRacing said:


Dropping boost on top? Mine was on the medium cannister. It's almost as if these things should ship with high boost cans factory. Was cool to see my car make 376 whp on 11 psi though!

Yeah been a bit of an ongoing stuff around. FR shipped the wrong high booster cannister for TS frame. So then got a turbosmart dual port locally. It wouldn't hold boost. So changed EBC to one which can have different duties at different rpm but apparently made no difference on the dyno. Pretty much I don't think tuner likes the turbo :blink:.

Yeah been a bit of an ongoing stuff around. FR shipped the wrong high booster cannister for TS frame. So then got a turbosmart dual port locally. It wouldn't hold boost. So changed EBC to one which can have different duties at different rpm but apparently made no difference on the dyno. Pretty much I don't think tuner likes the turbo :blink:.



Yep. No way to keep boost high enough on top end without changing duty cycle throughout rpm. Mine is almost linear on duty cycle for rpms after it onsets.
  • Like 1
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...