Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pics of my work for this week.

Shows the Autometer boost gauge I put in Tuesday night and the Turbosmart Dual Stage boost controller missile switch inside the Stagea & the controller itself in the engine bay. On low boost it is set all the way anti-clockwise, hitting 9 psi. On high boost, just under 14 psi. Turbo is factory, so I don't want to go much higher than 14 psi anyway.

I took the Stagea for a road test this afternoon with the new setup up from home at Enoggera to Samford & return. It was fun to say the least. ;)

Now to give the Stagea a wash & polish tomorrow before maybe another hill run. :P

whats your avatar?

iHanso is my PSN id.

post-51740-1275723114_thumb.jpg

post-51740-1275723223_thumb.jpg

post-51740-1275723302_thumb.jpg

Finally found and fitted a limited slip diff for a series one stagea.

To celerbrate went to a historic racing event at Brooklands

After a bit (well a lot actually ) of chatting up one of the marshalls :thumbsup: and yes it was a her . I was allowed to drive onto one of the no go areas and take this pic

STAGEA1.jpg

Currently being blown up for my lounge wall

Finally found and fitted a limited slip diff for a series one stagea.

To celerbrate went to a historic racing event at Brooklands

After a bit (well a lot actually ) of chatting up one of the marshalls :thumbsup: and yes it was a her . I was allowed to drive onto one of the no go areas and take this pic

STAGEA1.jpg

Currently being blown up for my lounge wall

Was that an optional Nissan viscous lsd or an aftermarket other brand?

finally got a shift kit installed :cool: car goes 100 times better now. it was the only thing still holding me up, so now its time to crank the boost up and see how close i can get to the 300awkw mark.

Just picked up an rb30 short motor from an r31, for free off another awesome forum member.

WooHoo! Project RB30DET in C34-R and Project RB30DE in R31 Skyline wagon both soon to begin!

Group buy dump pipe, high flow cat & 3 inch exhaust through to first muffler being fitted today.

Going to see what benefit I get out of this before finishing the rest.

I pulled the orange indicator lens and the yellow fog light lensa out of the lights in my front bar. Looks heaps better!

i did that a few weeks ago, did you take out the metal bulb cover from the drivers side one?

it even unscrewed, no need to smash anything unlike what i'd heard

COILOVERS IN LAST NIGHT!!! >.< no more standard suspension! the car doesn't feel like a boat in the ocean any more :P

something interesting to note, all the bumb stops were totally screwed. half of one of them was wedged in the bottom coil of the spring, so i checked the rest of them and with 2, as soon as i lifted the dustcover, they fell out in pieces. with the other one, the bump stop wasn't even there anymore...

8kg front, 6 kg rear, dampner is on half way and it's probably a little too hard for our SHITHOUSE roads.

i used to whinge about roads in qld (especially brisbane city and the northside) but holy crap, adelaide has some absolutely disgusting roads. WHY THE HELL AREN'T THE MANHOLE COVERS, FLUSH WITH THE ROAD FFS?! i'm sure every other place in the WORLD can manage this, yet adelaide can't?

finally got a shift kit installed :P car goes 100 times better now. it was the only thing still holding me up, so now its time to crank the boost up and see how close i can get to the 300awkw mark.

YEW!!! where'd you have it done man?

COILOVERS IN LAST NIGHT!!! >.< no more standard suspension! the car doesn't feel like a boat in the ocean any more :P

something interesting to note, all the bumb stops were totally screwed. half of one of them was wedged in the bottom coil of the spring, so i checked the rest of them and with 2, as soon as i lifted the dustcover, they fell out in pieces. with the other one, the bump stop wasn't even there anymore...

8kg front, 6 kg rear, dampner is on half way and it's probably a little too hard for our SHITHOUSE roads.

i used to whinge about roads in qld (especially brisbane city and the northside) but holy crap, adelaide has some absolutely disgusting roads. WHY THE HELL AREN'T THE MANHOLE COVERS, FLUSH WITH THE ROAD FFS?! i'm sure every other place in the WORLD can manage this, yet adelaide can't?

YEW!!! where'd you have it done man?

nice, which coilovers did you go for? i got it done at Western Suburbs Automatics, i'd seen the name pop up a few times on SAU and when i rang the guy he knew what a stagea was and new the gearbox, so that was good enough for me lol. can't argue with the results, instant change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd with my setup.

i did that a few weeks ago, did you take out the metal bulb cover from the drivers side one?

it even unscrewed, no need to smash anything unlike what i'd heard

Both sides had metal lens holders in the fog light. I left them in there., just removed the yellow bit.

COILOVERS IN LAST NIGHT!!! >.< no more standard suspension! the car doesn't feel like a boat in the ocean any more :P

something interesting to note, all the bumb stops were totally screwed. half of one of them was wedged in the bottom coil of the spring, so i checked the rest of them and with 2, as soon as i lifted the dustcover, they fell out in pieces. with the other one, the bump stop wasn't even there anymore...

8kg front, 6 kg rear, dampner is on half way and it's probably a little too hard for our SHITHOUSE roads.

i used to whinge about roads in qld (especially brisbane city and the northside) but holy crap, adelaide has some absolutely disgusting roads. WHY THE HELL AREN'T THE MANHOLE COVERS, FLUSH WITH THE ROAD FFS?! i'm sure every other place in the WORLD can manage this, yet adelaide can't?

YEW!!! where'd you have it done man?

Awesome stuff. What height do you have it set at?

nice, which coilovers did you go for? i got it done at Western Suburbs Automatics, i'd seen the name pop up a few times on SAU and when i rang the guy he knew what a stagea was and new the gearbox, so that was good enough for me lol. can't argue with the results, instant change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd with my setup.

ended up with the BC Racing BR's, mostly to my own stupidity. not realising that the stag is A Arm and not McPherson, i saw camber tops in the pic and thought, "Hell yes! Front camber adjustment for an extra $100!"

Awesome stuff. What height do you have it set at?

pretty much stock height. the goal was to just get them in last night, haha. i've still got to lift the fmic up so that the bottom pipe doesn't stick so far out of the bottom of the car, before we decide to do anything with height. i personally want it to stay at stock height, but i think the girl has other ideas...

Both sides had metal lens holders in the fog light. I left them in there., just removed the yellow bit.

Awesome stuff. What height do you have it set at?

oh, i only had one drivers side, gives you much more spread without it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...