Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

glad yesterday is gone

was a black dog day

Cryptic man. I know what you mean Tangles, i got one of them coming up.

You need a holiday. TFIF. Have a different kinda black dog day. :thumbsup:

Edited by dirtyRS4

Trying to split my time between MCITP study, Relearning guitar(function fingers, FUNCTION) and getting as much time outside in forest as possible for general wellbeing... not much whoring from me! Plus work/social commitments etc.

How are we all?

Did some pretty huge mods today, they took ages.

From this

DSC00947.jpg

to THIS

DSC00950.jpg

it was a pretty big job, but i got it sorted out. :ermm:

so much better now that i know which fuse does what

p.s And Bubba, before you ask, the sway bars are getting fitted Tomorrow afternoon

Ok finally have my car on the road and running well again is also currently up for sale as well.

I have had a bit of a shopping spree of the last couple of days and have bought

4 Apexi EL2 Gauges

PCP 560 Turbo Kit

Tomei Poncams 8.6 Lift

FMIC with custom Piping

POD

Apexi N1 Coilovers

Walbro Fuel Pump

GTR Injectors from a R33 GTR

HKS Adjustable Cam Gears

New Gates Timing Belt

RB25 Clear Cam Cover

Splitfire Coilpacks

Whiteline Adjustable Camber Kit Front and Rear

And a new set of Rota G-Force 18 x 9 +30 Offset

Oh and i also forgot i also bought a Apexi Power FC

And guys and girls thats bout it all should be fitted when i get back from site on the 25th of november should be interesting to see what sorta power it puts down at all fours what are your guys opinions what sorta power should i make roughly of course just really keen to get back home as it is waiting there for me lol.

Patrick

If you are going to sell the car I wouldn't bother putting any of that stuff on as it won't increase the resale price much. Is it an auto or manual. S1 or S2?

If you are going to install all that stuff - you will only need one cam gear - best to keep the VCT on the inlet side (assuming you have an RB25DET and not an RB26DETT). I am not familiar with your turbo but without a new afm you will be limited to about 230 - 240 awkw. Are you sure GTR injectors will fit your engine?

Any way I will be interested to see how it goes!

Trying to split my time between MCITP study, Relearning guitar(function fingers, FUNCTION) and getting as much time outside in forest as possible for general wellbeing... not much whoring from me! Plus work/social commitments etc.

How are we all?

How is, ryan?. Im completing a MCITP Enterprise Administrator certification atm. I got to brush up on my AD and group policy. Has been a total head fark compared to Server 2003. Its really hard to "unlearn" something and do it the Microsoft way. Ill see where this industry qual gets me, bloody cost me enough. At least its not the CNNP yet. Ive been working in the private sector with VOIP and VMWare as of late. Its been too long since i last picked up my strat, you've inspired me again man.

Edited by dirtyRS4

Yea i know that putting this stuff on the car is not going to boost the price a lot but i wanted this stuff done to it only reason the car is really on the market is to keep the missus happy and if someone comes up with a decent offer ill let it go. The turbo is the same as a kkr560 and from what i have been told the GTR injectors will fit in the car if not ill just sell them off and buy another set, also cheers for the heads up on the AFM will buy a Z32 one when i am home tomorrow due to f**king my shoulder up on site.

Patrick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...