Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone just a shout out to Scott another awesome dump pipe received, this one across the ditch in NZ.

Scott your the manworship.gif

I have attached a couple of pics of the engines and turbo dumps I work with. ( hope this works)

Paul

post-88256-0-64321700-1320133177_thumb.jpg

post-88256-0-85903000-1320133194_thumb.jpg

Somebody is a railway Mech I thinks.... (right?)

This kind of thing is a pretty common sight for me. Not me in the photo, just a random interwebs pic.

Note right at the back of the motor there is a spare piston and rod. The engine casing is about 3 or 4 stories high...

Oh, its a Container ship motor. Heavy fuel oil.

Dsc03903.jpg

Edited by PN-Mad

Hey everyone just a shout out to Scott another awesome dump pipe received, this one across the ditch in NZ.

Scott your the manworship.gif

I have attached a couple of pics of the engines and turbo dumps I work with. ( hope this works)

Paul

Nice pics Paul; cubes+boost = WIN!:cheers:

I've been out of the game a while (used to build V16 2 stroke GM Diesels and a bit of Paxman stuff) Things look to have moved on a little! What make is that V20?

Somebody is a railway Mech I thinks.... (right?)

This kind of thing is a pretty common sight for me. Not me in the photo, just a random interwebs pic.

Note right at the back of the motor there is a spare piston and rod. The engine casing is about 3 or 4 stories high...

Oh, its a Container ship motor. Heavy fuel oil.

What is it you do Alex? Never really thought to ask... Or are you just in it for the seamen?:3some:

Hey everyone just a shout out to Scott another awesome dump pipe received, this one across the ditch in NZ.

Scott your the manworship.gif

I have attached a couple of pics of the engines and turbo dumps I work with. ( hope this works)

Paul

Im glad your happy with it Paul. :thumbsup:

Somebody is a railway Mech I thinks.... (right?)

Yeah Alex, back in the rail for about a year now after a break doing allsorts of different things.

Nice pics Paul; cubes+boost = WIN!:cheers:

I've been out of the game a while (used to build V16 2 stroke GM Diesels and a bit of Paxman stuff) Things look to have moved on a little! What make is that V20?

Things have moved on Dale I'm catching up now.The engine is German made by MTU 4.7 litres per cylinder 18:1 compression with 55 psi boost common rail injected 1800 rpm max. So in terms of a diesel they are a bit of a race engine.

Things have moved on Dale I'm catching up now.The engine is German made by MTU 4.7 litres per cylinder 18:1 compression with 55 psi boost common rail injected 1800 rpm max. So in terms of a diesel they are a bit of a race engine.

Very nice; common rail and computer control was only becoming a reality in large engines as I was leaving that part of the industry. I did see some pretty interesting Turbo/superchargers with the GM stuff; but not those kind of boost numbers.

It was cool knowing the turbos I was balancing & building were turning at 80,000rpm with a 60 cm wide impeller. Some Napier turbo assemblies were 100,000+ rpm! All on a floating bearing too; no BB set ups.

What kind of power are they producing; I'm guessing in the 3000 odd HP bracket?

Yep pretty much on the button with the horsepower 2700 quoted.We still have a few GM power plants but phasing them out slowly, they have been great work horses.

Good stuff. Looking forward to what you've got in store for the Stagea.thumbsup.gif

Hopefully picking my car up from All Type Crash this afternoon.

Aero wing painted, Xanadu grille painted, detail including brush touch up all round. It's hard to know where to stop spending money on bodywork though - there is a very minor dent in the passenger door. I could get it pulled out, but I'll be forever freaking out about some tosser denting the door again. I always park at the opposite end of the car park or take the end park, but people always manage to get way too close still. :rolleyes:

Hopefully picking my car up from All Type Crash this afternoon.

Aero wing painted, Xanadu grille painted, detail including brush touch up all round. It's hard to know where to stop spending money on bodywork though - there is a very minor dent in the passenger door. I could get it pulled out, but I'll be forever freaking out about some tosser denting the door again. I always park at the opposite end of the car park or take the end park, but people always manage to get way too close still. :rolleyes:

Go and talk to your local Paintless dent removal specialist; ask them if they'll do a cash job if you remove all the trim from the door. A lot of the time it's just the gesture that they appreciate.thumbsup.gif

I had 3 small pin dents done by a great PDR guy in my area for $60.

Go and talk to your local Paintless dent removal specialist; ask them if they'll do a cash job if you remove all the trim from the door. A lot of the time it's just the gesture that they appreciate.thumbsup.gif

I had 3 small pin dents done by a great PDR guy in my area for $60.

I'd thought about this but apparently the good local guy has recently retired. Need to scout out someone decent I guess.

  • 3 weeks later...

Rob from sinergy motorsports (adl) drive car [2005 axis/chocolate interior/v36 brakes] Thought it was pretty cool and I'd take some pics (havent seen a series 2 axis) .....don't know about the eyelids<BR><BR>post-41430-0-23872100-1321853747_thumb.jpg post-41430-0-03090400-1321853765_thumb.jpg

Edited by MOUTH

hmmm... wonder how he got that complied?

Looks good.

Still, wouldn't get any interior but black.

Northshore.... as a favour I hear (still cost them though).

EDIT: actually I think that was for a QLD based yard, but Northshore are offering compliance for other importers and have been for a few months now.

Oh and while I gotcha Alex, regardless of the instructions, you don't need to remove the rear water pipe when installing the kit.

Edited by iamhe77

Thanks Cam,

I think I saw it online in a QLD lot.

Thanks for the pro tip. That means the pathfinder cooling mod might just work then. How far through are you guys? before/after dyno? What did a GT-8 pull NA?

hmmm... wonder how he got that complied?

Looks good.

Still, wouldn't get any interior but black.

I agree black is nicer, Redicorp/pvp imports/sinergy motorsport in adelaide can comply m35's, they are on the raws list for m35s...i thought, god knows about 2005 axis model though :unsure:

http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/rawpubmain.asp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...