Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just washed mine after a run up the mountain on wednesday (was fithly after it)

got a hose onto it and gave the underside a good spray

i cant belive how much mud/dirt/rocks there were stuck under the side skirts and hiding away in the rear bumper

i reckon about 20kg of dirt came off the underside and i dont think it was all from that one trip

Well picked up my first stag yesterday 97 model and has 25t xfour written on the back got cream leather interior the satelite navigation tv screen in it has a full 3.5 inch TBE and hks turbo timer also has 18inch rims look like volks of some sort but gotta pull them off and have a look and the best part is I picked it up

for two grand with 8 month rego any how will be going in next week to have a new crossmember put in as the one in it is twisted and also will be getting a FMIC and injectors and eboost 2 put in and then have a tune done so will let you know how it all goes.

Patrick

nice 1.

finished with the stagea for now. last mod was the r32 gtr front calipers. 249rwkw.

working on doing up a r32 4door gtst sedan, with r30 manual & rb26dett engine.

excited. boat finally brought my container.

tomorrow get to p/up stich mags ($30 pound!).... these will hopefully fit the stagea

grex camshafts, spats strut bar, 6-point roll cage

exhaust temp sensor, turbo timer, bride left hand seat rail

bride drivers chair, apexi power intake piping kit

got all the parts for the rb26 buildup in the cupboard now:

hks oil pump, hks step 2 cam springs, n1 water pump, acl race bearings

hks 87mm pistons, attkd rods, arp bolts, arp main head studs

cometic street pro full gasket kit incl 87mm mls head gasket

tomei sump baffle pickup kit, tomei oil gallery orifice, ati harmonic balancer

greddy timing belt, new idler/tensioner, adjustable intake/exhaust cam pulleys

30-row engine oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, turbo oil cooler

hks split dump pipes, obx tuned-length manifolds, obx front pipe system, decat flex pipe

fitted wilwood superlite forged 4-piston calipers with 324mm drilled rotors up front.

got to install the external fuel pump and fuel surge tank system, then attack the exhaust

and sort out the seats, weld in roll cage and add to it, fill the belt/seat mounts in (eventually rego for 2seater?)

I changed the timing belt and caused the check engine light to come on.... :D

^^^ oh........pull the globe it will be fine!!! lol

speaking of pulling globes... kidafa not that long ago changed his dash to blue LED's... and didnt put his petrol light globe in properly...

needless to say he got a rather decent mileage to that tank...:D:D

Yesterday:

Hacked up the CF-look centre console plastic to graft an R34 manual shift console onto. But 50% done. All cutting/trimming is done, now I just need to plastic weld it all together and bog up the gaps. Later it all gets covered with some real CF. :bunny: Should be finished by early June.

Touched up/puttied and resprayed my front Aero type M bar.

While I had the bar off, refitted the electric fan in front of the a/c condenser.

Had to remove the FMIC to refit the fan, so I also discovered a 10mm size hole in the intercooler, from a bolt on the chassis rubbing thru. :thumbsup: Fixed it up, refitted and test drove it after. Bit more responsive now :banana:

In the next fortnight, I'll be upgrading my brakes to a 325mm kit. :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...