Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice car Ben.

3 minutes ago, ADM-GTR-062 said:

As requested here are a couple of photos of my car ADM #62

I have ALL stock parts in storage, including the mud flaps. Interior is 100% stock too.

GTR 1.jpg

GTR.jpg

Stock is positive is supposed to be near the guard, not near plenum. That said I did change my 32R to be like in the picture, and most looms should reach. It just seems more practical with positive configured like that doesn't it.

 

49 minutes ago, BK said:

Marko R1 I was replying directly to the previous post by John Murray - he claimed it is one of 9 silver cars with an ADM compliance plate. Actually GTR registry claims 25 ADM KG1 Jet silver metallic so I don't know where he got 1 of 9 from. End of the day, it is still just an R32 GTR in KG1 PRODUCED from Nissan and there are 1620 in that colour.

That is my point that I'm making - there is this ADM elitist attitude going on that somehow they are like a completely different built car and are a better car than they really are. A v spec 32 for example is mechanically a better car.

As for the gun metal grey ADM, who really gives a shit that it is the only ADM one in that colour. It is still the most common R32 GTR colour KH2 is it not ? Certainly doesn't deserve to command a massive price like that, and I will piss myself if it actually does go for it's asking price.

Look I like all the GTR models, and find the ADM ones intriguing, but anyone with any common sense sees right through this ADM perceived value. ADM 32 GTR is a cool thing, but there are a lot of other GTR models I would buy before an ADM one. And have. I passed on an ADM 32 in 2004 for my 33, don't regret it for a second.

Ok makes sense re 1 of 9 as I should have remembered that :)

 

There may be 1620 in total BUT only 9 with ADM compliance plates - ppl pay for rare models, similar to any other rare car like the other examples I mentioned (I guess all car enthusiasts are crazy and in a way, we all are) - it is just the way it is. 
 

128 changes in total for the ADM - yep, that is cool haha
 

Now I'm confused BK. Look closely and see my car has the positive next to the guard.

I thought that it was NOT factory correct?

I've looked at countless photos of under bonnet R32 (a lot of ADM) and found that most had the positive on the Plenum side. Also I think that terminals should be at the rear of the battery.

Can anyone else confirm?

Factory is definitely positive next to guard like yours, but that is generally a bit silly so people change it to stop dumbasses shorting the positive on guard. Most cars are near plenum, terminals to firewall side as it just makes more sense.

15 minutes ago, ADM-GTR-062 said:

Now I'm confused BK. Look closely and see my car has the positive next to the guard.

I thought that it was NOT factory correct?

I've looked at countless photos of under bonnet R32 (a lot of ADM) and found that most had the positive on the Plenum side. Also I think that terminals should be at the rear of the battery.

Can anyone else confirm?

I am certain that the positive sits on the plenum side just like yours does (mine and John Murray’s are also like this) 

  • Like 1

Actually....workshop manual shows positive to the plenum side, negative to the guard, eg page A6.

And FWIW, I personally don't think an ADM R32 is worth 100k+, but clearly some people do! at least we can be pretty confident those ones will be well looked after (yes, I'm looking at you Pete!).

Luckily there were 200 people that were willing to pay $110k each back in the 90s, and since that is worth about $215k today that guy looking for $235k+ has only made 20k in 30 years :blink2:

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
1 minute ago, Duncan said:

Actually....workshop manual shows positive to the plenum side, negative to the guard, eg page A6.

And FWIW, I personally don't think an ADM R32 is worth 100k+, but clearly some people do! at least we can be pretty confident those ones will be well looked after (yes, I'm looking at you Pete!).

Luckily there were 200 people that were willing to pay $110k each back in the 90s, and since that is worth about $215k today that guy looking for $235k+ has only made 20k in 30 years :blink2:

Duncan it’s been a long time - thanks for confirming battery terminal location & yes agreed on the capital growth with cars is generally poorer...better ways to make money :)

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

Actually....workshop manual shows positive to the plenum side, negative to the guard, eg page A6.

Yep your right Duncan, even Nissan fast confirms it. I think the confusion for me was caused when you look up various battery suppliers is that they list it as the guard side. Had the positive on my 32R on the plenum side for years as the guard side just seems silly, but did notice on the old man's 32R that his postive is definitely on the guard side. He is also 75 so maybe he was just being a bit senile and installed a backwards battery by mistake, like Ben with #62 has done.

  • Like 1

Yeah I also think that positive on the right, bottom (and therefore left, top in 32 GTR mounting) is more common so many people might have put installed batteries that require wiring that way around; also proves either setup is OK in practice because the standard loom reaches to the other side.  

I need some help fellas. My radio cassette is kaput. I think the power supply is the problem. Can't find anyone in Newcastle that fixes things anymore. A bit reluctant to send it away as it might disappear but I might have to. Any suggestions?

OH!! A bit less on the 75year old senility bit, we are fragile you know.

John

4 minutes ago, John Murray said:

I need some help fellas. My radio cassette is kaput. I think the power supply is the problem. Can't find anyone in Newcastle that fixes things anymore. A bit reluctant to send it away as it might disappear but I might have to. Any suggestions?

OH!! A bit less on the 75year old senility bit, we are fragile you know.

John

John I would take it to your local Jaycar store as it’s probably something trivial and they are great to deal with :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...