Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I read this three times Lith and I am no closer to understanding the first sentence.

Oops, I ment to say the .63 only showed advantage over the .82 below 3000rpm.... above that it started waking up pretty similar from memory and generally feels nicer to me. I reckon the .63 GT30 hot side is too tight for something that flows 50+lb/min.

I shouldn't post techy stuff when I have the flu :(

Its been a long year thats gone really fast, if that makes sense. Just to clarify, I've gone from .63 to .82 and I'd never go back to the .63 - the .82 is smoother and imho generally more fun - results in a much more knock resistant setup and boost control is noticeably easier, makes it seem like its the right match to me.

A .82a/r GTX3071R would be really really fun I reckon.

Oops, I ment to say the .63 only showed advantage over the .82 below 3000rpm.... above that it started waking up pretty similar from memory and generally feels nicer to me. I reckon the .63 GT30 hot side is too tight for something that flows 50+lb/min.

I shouldn't post techy stuff when I have the flu :(

Are you saying the 0.82 made similar power to the 0.63 even between 3-4000rpm? I would have thought while the 0.82 is building boost through this rev range the 0.63 would be going hard.

I do agree with all the other advantages of the 0.82 I just would have thought the 0.63 would be ahead to around 4000rpm.

When loaded up against a dyno you might be able to tell the difference, but in the real world IN MY OPINION the difference starts becoming a case of you'd have to go from a car running the .63 and then jump back into one running .82, and back and forth and have a big think about it to try and work out which is which if you hadn't been told which was running what... assuming they were both otherwise identical. The way I remember it there was a slightly lazy feeling sensation from 2500-3000rpm when going to the .82 which went away once above 3000rpm.

Lets put it this way, if you have a healthy stock turbo car next to mine at anything 3000rpm+ and stand on the throttle in both the difference in response negligable enough that anything that may be gained in that instant is negated almost immediately afterwards. Full boost at 3500-4000rpm doesn't mean that its dead until then.

Last question, I promise!

What do you guys think a GTX3071 with a 0.82 housing will cost when they are available in Australia? I'm trying to decide if I should get one from the US now, or be patient. If it doesn't save me any money going local, I might place this order today.

I won't be getting the manifold to suit until mid January, so I guess I could wait and see, but given that there isn't high availability of GTX3071 overseas yet (ATP has no stock, RSP has 1 left), i don't know what australian supplies will be like, or if there will be the limited-supply overcharges :P

IMHO the .63 showed its major advantage over the .82 below .63, I have had both and there is no way I'd go with the .63 again. With an old GT3071R I'd consider .63 possibly, but with the extra compressor flow of the GTX3071R I'd go .82.

I know what you mean and i mostly agree. I previously ran the gt3071 .63 on an rb25 and would do so again (with an ex gate this time). It didn't seem to give away anything up top over the .82 graphs i saw but was all in 500-750 sooner with mountains of torque from 3k. If i were to go a gtx3071 i would definitely do the .82 housing as there were already manifold pressure issues showing with the gt.

I know what you mean and i mostly agree. I previously ran the gt3071 .63 on an rb25 and would do so again (with an ex gate this time). It didn't seem to give away anything up top over the .82 graphs i saw but was all in 500-750 sooner with mountains of torque from 3k. If i were to go a gtx3071 i would definitely do the .82 housing as there were already manifold pressure issues showing with the gt.

Yeah that's what I'd have expected, and yeah if I went a GT3071R I would actually definitely use the .63. The trick is the 76mm compressor is heavier and its going to be a bit laggier, no point half committing and getting the extra lag without the full extra flow.

I would LOVE to actually drive an R33 with a .63 GT3071R actually, it was my first choice - though I don't regret the option I have it'll still be nice to know what the grass is like on the other side. If I rebuild my RB25 I'd probably go to a GTX3071R, 6lb/min more flow with less lag definitely has me intrigued.

  • 2 weeks later...

U need an apples-to-apples comparison with the turbo as the only variable on exactly the same setup to make an accurate comparison. Too many other thing can cause lag (intercooler piping and size, cams, cam timing, compression ratio, exhaust, blow-by, tune)

Saw results for a GTX3076R, so far unimpressed - if I had been told it was a GT3082R I would have believed it... more power than a normal 3076 but also quite a bit more lag.

If that was the one that was run on the WRX, then apparently the turbo is bogus. It's a rebuilt turbo that the user (OP) had delivered 4 months before Garrett had released the GTX wheels. Read post #60 on page 3.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2034214

Edited by D_Stirls

U need an apples-to-apples comparison with the turbo as the only variable on exactly the same setup to make an accurate comparison. Too many other thing can cause lag (intercooler piping and size, cams, cam timing, compression ratio, exhaust, blow-by, tune)

Sounds like... backpeddling ;)

Ah my bad, I hadn't seen the last post by Geoff. The GTX3071R post looks interesting though, 521hp is pretty epic- thats pretty intense. People who are familiar with Dyno Dynamics dynos, is the mode that is done in some kind of flywheel estimation? I normally take 521hp on a DD dyno to be pretty big power for a GT30 turbo.

gtx3076r with the skyline .73 AR exhaust housing (avoturbo.com) might be very interesting.....

currently using this housing with gt3076r bb core, lag in awd auto stagea until just over 2000rpm then it takes off! easy 250awkw with 450cc S15 injectors

better than stock automatic torque converter would change this again tho....

throw in 550cc injectors and the gtx3076r turbo and there's an easy 300awkw on pump gas with remap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...