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Garrett Medium Frame Gtx Turbos

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The RE5 locks when cruising on light load but only in drive. If you flick it into manual it locks every gear. I have disconnected it for the street as the lockup clutch cant handle the torque/converter flare, but on the dyno I have 12v switched straight to the by-passed solenoid making the box behave like a manual. I may have to put a manual clutch or transbrake into it one day soon.

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whatsisname
whatsisname

Polished up pretty good if I do say so myself [emoji4]

FineLine
FineLine

Who gives a toss how it looks if it meets the performace criteria. I hope they wax garretts arse to the point where garrett actually starts doing some real r&d and giving customers something bette

whatsisname
whatsisname

The GTX3584RS will support roughly 850-880HP on a 3.0L (maximum rpm of ~7500-8000) at a PR of about 3.1-3.3 No chance of getting 1000HP out of it, not unless it can be done at a PR of 2.75 and even th

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Randon_I_Am Veteran

Randon_I_Am

Posted
Posted

I believe the afm is like 3 1/4 " or sumthing. Plus I've gutted the afm. No 1" bar across the middle. Most people run pfc with an afm Which still has an inch of thick plastic to create turbulance etc. I duno. Look ideally Wed all have no pod filter and almost zero exhaust for altimate flow. Lol. If I can get 500rpm off with actuator fiddling etc. This will be an insane setup. 600hp full boost at 3500. That's like hard to even comprehend. Lol

WTF???

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

If you flick it into manual it locks every gear.

That's strange behaviour?? Pretty sure commodore torque converters dont do that. I thought the idea was that you dont want too much load when the torque converter is locked otherwise you will burn it out.

NissTrust Enthusiast

NissTrust

Posted
Posted

Hey scotty i have a similar 2 tonne barge, albeit a Subaru Liberty Gt spec B Wagon with the EJ25, i am running the GTX3076r with a 0.82 Tial rear exhaust housing and on a run in tune with 20psi of boost its making 274kw, just need to sort out some fuelling issues and will push the boost a bit more. I am running a 3inch exhaust with a 5inch body 100cell cat, there was no difference power when running with and without. Will also pass the visual Cat inspection. ;)

yours is a great build, keep it up!

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Dont ask me Jeff, Mr Nissan designed it that way. :)

Its supposed to be sporty in manual mode so the converter locks to provide full power and economy with no flare. The issue is it slowly tries to lock over 2 seconds after the gearchange, which is fine at stock power and with the stock converter but with 2 1/2 times the torque and 4000 stall instead of 2500 it has no chance. Thats why I cut the wire to the lockup solenoid.

As the new vic hoon laws have come into effect I have decided to plumb the external back in today if I get a chance.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Hey scotty i have a similar 2 tonne barge, albeit a Subaru Liberty Gt spec B Wagon with the EJ25, i am running the GTX3076r with a 0.82 Tial rear exhaust housing and on a run in tune with 20psi of boost its making 274kw, just need to sort out some fuelling issues and will push the boost a bit more. I am running a 3inch exhaust with a 5inch body 100cell cat, there was no difference power when running with and without. Will also pass the visual Cat inspection. ;)

yours is a great build, keep it up!

Want to sell your Tial .82? I cant find one anywhere, Tial are out of stock worldwide. :(

ShiftyTys Rising Star

ShiftyTys

Posted
Posted

Hey scotty i have a similar 2 tonne barge, albeit a Subaru Liberty Gt spec B Wagon with the EJ25, i am running the GTX3076r with a 0.82 Tial rear exhaust housing and on a run in tune with 20psi of boost its making 274kw, just need to sort out some fuelling issues and will push the boost a bit more. I am running a 3inch exhaust with a 5inch body 100cell cat, there was no difference power when running with and without. Will also pass the visual Cat inspection. ;)

yours is a great build, keep it up!

Nice

NissTrust Enthusiast

NissTrust

Posted
Posted (edited)

Want to sell your Tial .82? I cant find one anywhere, Tial are out of stock worldwide. :(

hahaha, thats a shame,

I brought mine on Ebay from a canadian seller.

He has plenty left:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Housing-Tial-V-band-inlet-and-outlet-GT30R-82-A-R-/380188401314?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5884fe9ea2#ht_1331wt_907

Edited by NissTrust
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

LOL, I didnt look but yeah thats pretty insane.. Must be compensating for the price. Thats usually how average ebay sellers make stuff look more attractive on the surface

Absolutely do not want to start a shitfight, but did you consider a Kando 10cm housing? Had I gone Garrett I would have definitely used that housing.. its like $160 delivered! T3 and Vband out.. For that money it might be worth your trying (I know you fab your own stuff).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290564386512&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I already have the Vband Tial adapter made so I would obviously prefer the Tial housing but that one shares the compact packaging I required. I know HKS managed to fit the T3 adapter but the Vband is hard enough to tighten in that tight space without 8 bolts to do up. Imagine putting a ship in a bottle using 17mm spanners. >_<

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

The RE5 locks when cruising on light load but only in drive. If you flick it into manual it locks every gear. I have disconnected it for the street as the lockup clutch cant handle the torque/converter flare, but on the dyno I have 12v switched straight to the by-passed solenoid making the box behave like a manual. I may have to put a manual clutch or transbrake into it one day soon.

cut and shut the bell-housing and run a clutch with the auto behind, best of both worlds. Use the clutch pedal for take off then the auto takes over. Pretty easy conversion if you have access to a lathe and cnc machine..

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Haha. Don't panick. I'm not running an Afm. Its there for good looks. Hence the gutting.

is it all sorted? been meaning to call but been pulling some crazy 6am to 11pm days for a week or so.

ShiftyTys Rising Star

ShiftyTys

Posted
Posted

is it all sorted? been meaning to call but been pulling some crazy 6am to 11pm days for a week or so.

Nah. Going in next Monday for a few days. I've got a few other things I want sorted but I still needed to ask u a couple things. Do u mind if we have a really quick chat after 6pm tommorow? Or no good? Thanks heaps....

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

cut and shut the bell-housing and run a clutch with the auto behind, best of both worlds. Use the clutch pedal for take off then the auto takes over. Pretty easy conversion if you have access to a lathe and cnc machine..

So instead of transbrake clutch in and use a two step or something to build boost in neutral then drop it?

Wouldn't a transbrake be cheaper?

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

cut and shut the bell-housing and run a clutch with the auto behind, best of both worlds. Use the clutch pedal for take off then the auto takes over. Pretty easy conversion if you have access to a lathe and cnc machine..

That could get confusing LOL, but I like the idea!

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