Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7 Year old M/T's

1530kg car without driver

If memory serves me correct 400-420rwkw in a 1750/1800kg car(inc driver) is ~130mph.

Closer to 400-450rwkw does seem about right :)

Not having a go here either, the MPH is always a good indicator. Video the run at all? :merli:

Never had those ET calcs work that well because they don't take things like diff gearing into account for one (of the many many other factors).

Have a look @ the drag thread and base it of that & the power associated, it's got specific times to Skylines which is far more relevant and suggests the calcs are not as accurate as what people actually go and run.

Take NUTR33 for example:

360rwkw - [email protected]

Far cry from 500rwkw and already into the 130mph mark.

Never had those ET calcs work that well because they don't take things like diff gearing into account for one (of the many many other factors).

Have a look @ the drag thread and base it of that & the power associated, it's got specific times to Skylines which is far more relevant and suggests the calcs are not as accurate as what people actually go and run.

Take NUTR33 for example:

360rwkw - [email protected]

Far cry from 500rwkw and already into the 130mph mark.

i got 2 runs in & my first time at WSID.

i short shifted into 2nd & 3rd on the 10.8 pass.

so the mph will rise if we hold out gears longer but traction was an issue...

Edited by BMYHOE

Traction doesn't tend to have a big effect on trap speeds until it is actually an extended smokey skid

Very true. At the motive DVD thingo last year I did a few runs with the start like I was taking off from a set of lights. Later in it was 8000 rpm launches. The difference? 2 MPH.

i agreed. it spun 1st gear.. 1.89 60ft aiming for a 1.5 60ft with new m/t's

if we can strip close to 130kg's?

MPH has to rise.

MPH will rise, and also fall :)

A better 60ft (.4 drop you are aiming for) generally will mean a lower MPH by 2-3MPH on average is what I found when racing regularly. Stripping KG will increase - so overall you should be in front though it might not be as much as you are expecting if it hooks up nicely

  • 3 weeks later...

This is on an SR20VE perhaps, but still - I am officially quite impressed with the GTX3076R now....

477kw on 30psi running E85:

622274_413213968746634_1172936981_o-1024x819.jpg

http://www.shredmotorsport.co.nz/2012/sr20vet-results-and-the-truth-about-dyno-corrections/

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...