Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do the computer nerds dial in some data into the start mode of the ecu?

I presumed a decent throttle opening dials up the prescribed rpm (no more) then release clutch on lights out. Once motoring, the right foot does the rest. Anti-stall in the event of bog down.

Or is it completely manual??

news of the day

pf1

jb hasn't ginen up yet

"I'm a racing driver, and I know how these things can suddenly change around, so I know that it's never over 'til it's over," the 31-year-old said during the Vodafone VIP Live Q&A at the Manchester demo run.

"It would be disappointing to think that he's uncatchable. There are still seven races remaining - that's 175 points if you won them all - and you never know what might happen, so it's definitely still game on."

Lotus-Renault GP team owner Gerard Lopez admits he is surprised by Nick Heidfeld's decision to take legal action against the team.

Heidfeld has decided to go down the legal route after Renault handed his race seat to Bruno Senna for the rest of the season. His hearing is expected to take place in three weeks and the German is confident he will come out victorious.

"Well if we would not be confident that we had a case then we wouldn't follow it up, so yes I believe that is the situation," he told BBC Sport during the Belgian Grand Prix.

Lopez, whose Genii Capital is the majority shareholder in Renault, told the Tageblatt Luxembourg that Heidfeld's performances before his axing were below par.

"He had all the normal pressures and we told him that it was not, in our opinion, what we expected from him," he said.

"He was always treated us with respect and he will continue to do so because he is still member of the team."

When asked if he was surprised by Heidfeld's decision to go to court, Lopez replied: "I'd say that was the emotional reaction of a man who likes to race for a living. Surprising, yes."

watching them do burnouts just before they take a grid box for their practice start is fantastic. In monaco, if you're anywhere near the pit straight is absolutley deafening

gotta wonder how the rich-ass mofo's that live there have put up with the yearly intrusion for so long- or maybe prince Ranier Wolfcastle just tells them to stfu or gtfo when anyone complains :laugh:

news of the day

pf1

2012 F1 calendar

18 March - Australia

25 March - Malaysia

15 April - China

22 April - Bahrain

13 May - Spain

27 May - Monaco

10 June - Canada

24 June - Europe

08 July - Great Britain

22 July - Germany

29 July - Hungary

02 September - Belgium

09 September - Italy

23 September - Singapore

07 October - Japan

14 October - Korea

28 October - India

04 November - Abu Dhabi

18 November - United States

25 November - Brazil

yep the sphincter of the universe's gone

Edited by tweety bird
I presumed a decent throttle opening dials up the prescribed rpm (no more) then release clutch on lights out. Once motoring, the right foot does the rest. Anti-stall in the event of bog down.

To the best of my knowledge, while the lights count down (or is that up ;) ) the driver releases the clutch paddle to a pre-set point which engages the driveline. The driver then dials up the correct revs and when the lights go out eases out (as opposed to a dump) the rest of the clutch paddle.

The pre-set clutch point is dialled in both by the computer nerds and by the practice starts. Despite all this I fail to see what is going wrong with Webbers starts. He is one of the most experienced drivers out there and plenty of drivers with less experience seem to get away ok. The driver also gets to practice their starts so if there was something wrong with Webbers technique surely he would be able to dial it in during practices. The same goes with the car - if there was something wrong with the clutch pre sets the team has had plenty of chance to rectify it.

thanks for the replies. I didnt have much of an idea how they actually set the car up for a start like that.

I wonder how much of this can be blamed on Webbs !!! Seems that this is automated to the point that the drivers doesnt have to think much about releasing the clutch. You would be essentially a passenger.

Wouldnt you think the dicks setting the throttle and clutch presets would have got this right by now. If I was Mark I would be pretty pissed. Luckily he has managed to pull some good finishes in any case purely by his driving.

Even Vetool's starts havent been all that great the last dozen races. So obviously there is some programming work to do.

fck it can't be hard. my old R35 GTR had 'launch control' that was perfectly acceptable and event a retard could use it. select the right swithces, mash throttle to floor, hold foot on brake (doesn't need to be hard) car automatically brings revs up to the desired point (about 5,000 in this case, more like 15,000 I'd guess in an F1 car) and also engages the clutch to the right part. when it's time to leave you simply release the brake pedal (it's only acting as a switch so any button would do) and the car automatically releases the brakes (which have been locked on) and releases the clutch at the right speed and lets the revs go.

no reason it needs to be any harder in an F1 car. I know it'd need some fine tuning for different tracks and different tyres but it wouldn't be much of a change just move the revs up or down a bit. perhaps the rules in F1 prevent a bit of this stuff as I know teams did set up their 'launch control' so that it actually doubled as a low speed corner traction control system too.

but yeah it's shithose how bad webbers starts are. as much as I love the guy and think he's an awesome driver I do seem to remember some poor starts in other F1 cars too (though they were all pretty shit cars so it may be coincidental).

Thinking about it his starts cost him the WDC last year. He was on the front row in Valencia, at the end of the first lap he was 10th or something and ended up hittinh Heikki and a DNF. His Spa start last year cost him the win. His start in Malaysia cost him the win :) But i still luvs ya Webz :)

fck it can't be hard. my old R35 GTR had 'launch control' that was perfectly acceptable and event a retard could use it. select the right swithces, mash throttle to floor, hold foot on brake (doesn't need to be hard) car automatically brings revs up to the desired point (about 5,000 in this case, more like 15,000 I'd guess in an F1 car) and also engages the clutch to the right part. when it's time to leave you simply release the brake pedal (it's only acting as a switch so any button would do) and the car automatically releases the brakes (which have been locked on) and releases the clutch at the right speed and lets the revs go.

yeah Baron but an automated launch control is no longer allowed afaik. The pre set clutch point simply sets the clutch at the point where the driveline is engaged but the car isn't moving forward. The driver then needs to balance the revs against releasing the clutch lever much the same as us mere mortals need to balance the accel with the clutch pedal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...