Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I like the idea of limiting the number of tyres available but the idea of a compound limitation could be a hindrance in the lower classes being a feeder to the higher end of town.

It certainly wouldnt concern me simply because us poorer folk will never have the wherewithall to race against those guys but I am sure there were cars at sl this year that would have lost lots if the compound limit was introduced.

The whole tyre usage issue could be avoided by limiting the number of tyres available to the competitors. Maybe open should be restricted to one or two sets to discourage using them like the pro guys. A no rules event will always be dominated by the biggest budget but this might level the playing field a little in the lower classes.

Great idea!

Sorry, but there is no way tyre limits will work.

No category in Oz including mine has been successful in stopping cheating when tyre limits are implemented.

Too many ways to get around them, and if you are willing to spend $300k+ on a car for super sprints, you better beleive some of them will be hapy to cheat on something so important.

And I also saw tyres in the pits with japanese stickers on board - no way was everyone buying commercial tyres from oz suppliers.

open class shouldnt have a limit. after all they are the ones people want to see smash records.

i know with the utes, we were limited to 1 new set per weekend. 2x 20 min practice 1x 20 min qual 3x 20 min races. and enough left for 1 pracitce at the next event. 1810kg on 235/45/18 048's

but all the open guys who want to go hard and flat spot a few will have there weekend limited, also they may aswell pack it up. after all it is TIME ATTACK not an enduro with a reverse grid race.. its just one biq qualifing session.

besides with the tyre temps we were getting after 4 laps these tyres will fall apart in a race. let alone being boiled over and over again. if this was at phillip island there would of been many r/f blowouts.

if everyone is worried about unfair advantages and budgets of the more well financed teams then to bad. yes to get a mad time takes money. you do not want to go down the road looking for parity because someone will be restricted, and im not going to pay a premium entry fee only to be limited.. similar to the shannons series where it is power to wieght ratio governed.

as far a tyres are concerned all the "semies" used are a road legal tyre. as long as it has a date code,a dot or "e" mark and "tread" its legal.

if any tire rule comes in it should be open with softs and pro with meduims and clubsprint with hards.. semis for all. at least the tyre ware will make it affordable for the pro and clubsprint guys.

we dont want this to be a governed race meeting where we look at weight/power/tyres etc etc. the currant format is ok. but with the variety of cars and combos its just not practical to impose these limitatios.

on the whole it was a good weekend. really just an expencive shake down for further tweeking for us. busted the top of a sleeve in the vq30. (epic head gasket failure) over heated) these things are pretty tough. stock rods are scary thin and use 7mm thick rod bolts. reving to 8k and over 9k on down changes with 20 pounds boost, pulled from a halfcut.. (with our bolt ons lol) bearings all like new as are pistons.

bigger and better here we come :)

Superlap is the only motorsport I can think of that is pretty much unrestricted. I think it's great! these days inovation in motorsport is pretty much gone with parity rules, and standardised cars. It's nice to see what can be done with no rules.

^^^ Agreed,

Although the only suggestion I would make, would be to make the difference between Pro and Open class greater. As shown by the results, the Top runners in Open, were nipping at the feet of the Pro Class.

Might be an option to keep the entrant numbers around the same but include another class. Club, Open (Privateer), Open (Sponsored), Pro. I think the field is large enough that it could work; and with keeping the rules the same between the two Open Classes. Difficult part will be differentiating between the privateer and sponsored entrants.

I agree tyre regs aren't right for this style of racing. even if you did the guys with money just find a way to optimise their set-up to the limit of the rules.

the whole attraction of this is that it's different to other types of racing. it's not an endurance event so let the guys use 10 sets of tyres if they want to. the average joe with 1 or 2 sets still has a crack. he can set his car up on used tyres and when the track is at it's peak and his set-up is dialled in, bolt on the freshies and go for it just like everyone else.

and if you think about it there is kind of a limit there already. there are only 4 sessions per day. now assuming your car is running for all 8 sessions and set-up optimised and weather is perfect (even the difference between cloudy and sunny can knock a second out of the track) then you can still really only use 8 sets unless you go really hard and try and do 2 full tilts each session. even the Pro class guys use old tyres most sessions and usually have a serious crack with new tyres for the first and last session of the day (first cause track speed is there and last cause setup is dialled in and track comes back a little). so that's only 4 sets of brand new tyres at the most. I'd say most of the Pro guys used 2 sets of new tyres maybe 3 at most. open guys maybe 1 or 2 sets of new tyres with 1 or 2 sets of olds.

like dave said, if you don't think it's fair that guys with the most money have the best gear then motor racing is not for you! luckily though talent, intelligence, and hard work can and often do overcome a big budget.

^^^ Agreed,

Although the only suggestion I would make, would be to make the difference between Pro and Open class greater. As shown by the results, the Top runners in Open, were nipping at the feet of the Pro Class.

Might be an option to keep the entrant numbers around the same but include another class. Club, Open (Privateer), Open (Sponsored), Pro. I think the field is large enough that it could work; and with keeping the rules the same between the two Open Classes. Difficult part will be differentiating between the privateer and sponsored entrants.

I dunno. this year John Unique Zed who came somewhere near the back of Pro class (3rd last actually) could have finished 2nd in open class. that shows me the classes are about right. in fact martin notaras who was second last in Pro would have been 2nd in open too. only the winning open time was really a pro type effort (being a full second ahead of 2nd place and a high 1:34). I think perhaps the top 3 guys in open should be invited to compete in Pro the next year.

Having said that the winning open time would have only got him 14th place in Pro out of 17 cars (so 3rd last). 2nd place in open would have only been good enough for 2nd last.

I really don't think its as bad as everyone's making out.... I competed this year in the White S15 200sx with "SX Developments" down the side of it.

S15_speedshots.jpg

This is a long way from a big budget car... Its a stock sr20 motor with a set of cams and a bolt on 3071R running on pump fuel making 265rwkw. Sure the widebody, paint, cage, carbon etc wasn't cheap but the car isn't a massive dollar car.

I bought a set of medium A050's 2 months ago to practice on and only got one days on them as a driving solutions day got cancelled and the car wasn't ready for the other so like most people we weren't as prepared/practiced as we would have liked but we at least got a supersprint in the week before.

For the event I had a second hand set of Hankooks, the medium A050's and 1 brand new set of Hankooks and that was it. We used the A050's for the first two sessions of practice and then went onto the second hand Hankooks which we used until the last session on Friday where we put the new set on and did the PB of 1.39.6.

So it proved you don't need huge bucks to compete and at least be competetive. The freedom of no rules makes the innovation and preparation more fun not being constrained. Now obviously we were never going to win and dollars do play a huge part but I reckon the innovation plays as big a part as the dollars invested.

That was proven with a couple of pro class cars that didn't meet the expectations/hype.

The event has to differentiate itself from anything else otherwise it won't survive. The reality of Superlap is its a commercial venture so it needs to make money to survive. The best way of drawing crowds (therefore the investment, attention, hype & interest) is to have bigger, better and faster cars and currently there is very few motorsport events you can compete in that have limited rules.

The only caveat on put on that is that the key to the success of this event is the 'relevance' of the cars to those watching it... ie. that car doing 1.35's is like mine.

My concern is that if the event becomes tube/space frame, fibreglass/carbon body skin (ie. carbon body r35) etc then the event will lose its relevance to the audience and my personal opinion is, thats when it may begin to lose its appeal as they may as well be sports sedans. Have you seen the crowds a sports sedan event draw?? Nothing like world time attack..... which comes back to the commercial aspect for its long term survival.....

Edited by nfi

I really don't think its as bad as everyone's making out.... I competed this year in the White S15 200sx with "SX Developments" down the side of it.

S15_speedshots.jpg

This is a long way from a big budget car... Its a stock sr20 motor with a set of cams and a bolt on 3071R running on pump fuel making 265rwkw. Sure the widebody, paint, cage, carbon etc wasn't cheap but the car isn't a massive dollar car.

I bought a set of medium A050's 2 months ago to practice on and only got one days on them as a driving solutions day got cancelled and the car wasn't ready for the other so like most people we weren't as prepared/practiced as we would have liked but we at least got a supersprint in the week before.

For the event I had a second hand set of Hankooks, the medium A050's and 1 brand new set of Hankooks and that was it. We used the A050's for the first two sessions of practice and then went onto the second hand Hankooks which we used until the last session on Friday where we put the new set on and did the PB of 1.39.6.

So it proved you don't need huge bucks to compete and at least be competetive. The freedom of no rules makes the innovation and preparation more fun not being constrained. Now obviously we were never going to win and dollars do play a huge part but I reckon the innovation plays as big a part as the dollars invested.

That was proven with a couple of pro class cars that didn't meet the expectations/hype.

The event has to differentiate itself from anything else otherwise it won't survive. The reality of Superlap is its a commercial venture so it needs to make money to survive. The best way of drawing crowds (therefore the investment, attention, hype & interest) is to have bigger, better and faster cars and currently there is very few motorsport events you can compete in that have limited rules.

The only caveat on put on that is that the key to the success of this event is the 'relevance' of the cars to those watching it... ie. that car doing 1.35's is like mine.

My concern is that if the event becomes tube/space frame, fibreglass/carbon body skin (ie. carbon body r35) etc then the event will lose its relevance to the audience and my personal opinion is, thats when it may begin to lose its appeal as they may as well be sports sedans. Have you seen the crowds a sports sedan event draw?? Nothing like world time attack..... which comes back to the commercial aspect for its long term survival.....

couldn't agree more mate. great post and well done on 15th in open! 1:39 is a seriously respectable time and you faired well against plenty of tough competition. :) 4th to 20th in open was covered by less than 3 seconds!

I agree with nearly all your pooints, particularly about innovation over dollars. It's what I was trying to say with intelligence/talent/hard work overcoming bigger budgets. and the lack of rules really encourages people to innovate and try new stuff (witness MCA S13 with it's hammerhead front wing). and I also agree on keeping it relevant and keeping spectators coming. the key to it's success is that fact that's it's really different and that the cool super fast cars are not so far removed from what typical enthusiasts drive and race. Keeping out the tube frame cars is part of that (I know revolution were an exception).

People who go to eastern creek regularly for different categories will tell you we never get crowds like that. about the only thing in recent times that comes close is historic meets like muscle car masters etc and that's a completely different segment of the community.

I really hope we see WTAC 2012 and at eastern creek again. as much as I'd love to see a new venue I also love being able to directly compare results to previous years. that makes it all the more cool (like Tsukuba has been in japan) and it seems to suit the venue really well.

again, congrats on a great result and a great time. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...