Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so Kando turbo choice for an E85 250rwkw+ setup aiming to use stock turbo manifold? :).

Serisouly , if you are running the std manifold. As big a fan of the Mitsu tubos I am if I had an RB25 and wanted to run std manifold then I would go for http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-020&Category_Code=GRT

if you must use a kando to make 250kw on E85............ something is wrong

anyway, you seem committed so good on you. Get the TD06SL2-20g 10cm, it will meet and exceed 250 on E85 with your +T

I'm not sure what you guys are insinuating by 'must use' and 'committed'. The engine is out of the car and I'm looking for something that is comfortably going to do 250+ rwkw on a na block motor running E85 with some heavy use in mind. I say 250rwkw _+_ because i'm not really sure just how far this motor can be pushed, so 250 seems like a good starting figure. There are literally millions of ways to go about this, but i'm looking for something cost effective while still having room to go higher. I am quite prepared to go an external gate setup if it nets me those rewards and isn't cost prohibitive, from discussions I have had so far this is the case. I don't want to go a garret because it is twice the price for seemingly little benefit, that said if that kando is a piece of crap there is surely nothing stopping me from going back to garret (which I currently use in my other skylines).

I have posted in this thread because I am 'interested' and 'intrigued' by the potential of these turbo's; they have the extra leg room over an internally gated turbo (especially when i'm interested in a flex fuel setup and may need to run stupidly low boost settings while on <E85) while not costing the extra that name brand external gate turbo setups might. Obviously unless I have the same setup that someone else has done it is all guess work. In my case I understand there isn't a lot of experience with Neo DE+T's on E85 let alone which specific turbos might be a good choice, and I'm quite prepared to get it wrong. I was hoping someone in here might have a better idea than me :). I appreciate your thoughts on my options because this is my first time venturing off the beaten track, however I do want to make it clear that this car is purely for fun/hobby/toy. It currently lives in a shed with no time limit associated and I am able to do all the work on it myself.

anyway, sorry for the wall of text, the TD06SL2-20G 10cm housing was the turbo I was thinking too.

Serisouly , if you are running the std manifold. As big a fan of the Mitsu tubos I am if I had an RB25 and wanted to run std manifold then I would go for http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-020&Category_Code=GRT

Yes...if i had of just got that in the first place I wouldnt be where i am now :/

But somehow even when I try to do things properly I end up doing them the hard way...f**k you fate and your friend destiny too....

sorry saruman, I don't mean to be harsh or anything.. Don't take it the wrong way.

Its more or leas that the kando isn't the simplest option and with a +T in mind you don't want to put too much effort into a setup that may not work out.

More or less im confident U will net 280 from a 20g 10cm on e85 but I think you will also do similar using a hypergear G2. The g3 inmentioned prior will net U hopefully 300. You can consider the g2 to be similar to a 3071. I am thinking with exhaust headroom in mind... The g2 has a fairly big exhaust wheel with a 71mm compressor. Like I said sort of like a 3071..

I guess the point here is don't be too committed to using an item that has all custom parts when you are venturing into the unknown. Especially if only aiming for 250... U should get a decent 250 from the g2 on 98ron. And again, mostly bolts on including stock dump. Benefits are there, resale is probably a safer bet also.

So I am trying the FP Green 73HTA compressor on my TD06L2 turbine and 8cm housing. Who is going to give their TD06L2 to ATP in Melbourne for one of their billet wheel upgrades?

I am waiting for a reply to my email at the moment. Real keen to see which of all these turbos makes the numbers or whether all their claims are hype.

Here is the claimed difference between their billet 20G wheel replacement (anodised Gold) and the std 20G compressor.

Mitsubishi-EVO-Turbo-GOLD-1076.jpg

Mitsubishi-EVO-Turbo-GOLD-1094.jpg

The above is on an EVO so you could almost add 30-40rwkws for an indication of what it would make on a Skyline

The claim that they also make 30kws more then the FB Green compressor which is a little alarming since that is what I have :( The wheel looks as close to identical to the BBK billet compressors only gold vs blue.

why must you have to tempt me with new things when I havent even got the old thing going yet :/

Thats not the same billet wheel you were talking about the other day is it..It certainly doesnt look as fancy, just looks like the stock wheel painted gold.

if its not too costly I may consider it..in the name of science..after my car is working again that is..

I think we do... There was a 52T 3076 posted with like 370kw, thats 70kw above standard. Simon is a bad example as he believes he is running out of compressor flow more than he is tune scope.

Jez doing 286 on 15psi is also mental... Mick gained 20kw on 5psi less.. who else is there... Its not impossible man especially if your going from pump 98 to something like sucrogen. The ping resistance is nonsense, its like they have discovered how to combust water... Only better and in reality its sugar lol :closedeyes:

And Jez before you say it, im not f*cking filling up with E85 for my next tune :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 馃槢   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When鈥檚 the tow ball on the 33 coming? 馃檭
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
  • Create New...