Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well its either an 8cm or a 12cm for you, id say 12cm will still be less than optimal for drift but 8cm might just work.

I seem to say this a lot but if you read the entire thread you will find some comment on 8cm variants on RB25s throughout. Earlier in the thread status actually commented on how an 8cm T67 acts on an RB25...

I can only assume the SL2 wheel in an 8cm housing will work easier being driven by a 20g than it would a 25 :) now time to read the entire thread.

well its either an 8cm or a 12cm for you, id say 12cm will still be less than optimal for drift but 8cm might just work.

I seem to say this a lot but if you read the entire thread you will find some comment on 8cm variants on RB25s throughout. Earlier in the thread status actually commented on how an 8cm T67 acts on an RB25...

I can only assume the SL2 wheel in an 8cm housing will work easier being driven by a 20g than it would a 25 :) now time to read the entire thread.

yeah we used to use alot of 8cm instead of 10cm but the small gain in response is countered by the massive loss in mid and high end torque. will post a comparo on friday when im back at the shop. Its uprising how much the 8cm holds the turbo back on a 2.5 litre.

yeah we used to use alot of 8cm instead of 10cm but the small gain in response is countered by the massive loss in mid and high end torque. will post a comparo on friday when im back at the shop. Its uprising how much the 8cm holds the turbo back on a 2.5 litre.

This is good timing, a decision I've been pondering fits well into this actually. I'm helping with a budget build of a turbo Honda running an F20B engine (basically destroked H22A, makes 147kw stock) which will be running ~11psi - I have been seriously considering recommending one of these turbos with an 8cm hotside for it.

I know on an RB25 would better suit a larger housing given you'd be pumping more boost into etc, but what about a slightly smaller engine which flows similar to the RB25 but will be running lower boost - do you think in these circumstances the 8cm may be more suiteable?

As normal, aims are for a reliable turbo which isn't too laggy and particularly in the case of a +T type build, keep intake temps and exhaust pressure nice and engine friendly.

there is a car you should look at on NS called JET200. Its nothing special but it documents the guys experience with a T67 on an SR. I think he ended up wanting shorter gearing and a much higher rev limit despite notable gains when going down to an 8cm housing.

What's the power goals of the Honda? In any event I think the T67 isn't a great option at 11psi anyway.

Ahh I mixed Jez and Status' post and thought the latest talk was about TD06 20G setups.

I was thinking a 20G with 8cm housing, car is currently running some kind of Ebay GT3582R look alike turbo which is both very laggy and potentially a grenade. Really anything thats nicer to drive and going to be reliable would be good, obviously T3 flanged a must.

I'm going to be tuning it on a Dynapack, so should be looking at easily >220kw on 11psi.

I will be tuning an internal td06 20g next week, but this one is different, the customer has removed alot of material to make the flow alot better out of the normally poor flowing gate.

9a589ca7.jpg

6eed5cf9.jpg

Interesting to see the results. Good work on giving it a go. I would think you could get away with milling out all the centre/bridge and drilling and tapping an additional bolt hole for mounting a big bellmouth dump pipe. Or are you going to try and split the the gate and turbine gases?

Something makes me think that central bridge is the restriction itself..All those exhaust gases flowing out of the exhaust housing and wastegate hole would be at some point partly hitting that bridge, deflecting off it and being a restriction to the overall gas flow, hence more force required by the engine to push them out = less power / crappy internal gate housing design.. Just thoughts.pinch.gif

I cant believe this is even a debate. Its a 300 pesos manifold ffs. Nobody in their right mind is going to say its as good as the high end stuff.

What it is though is great value for money for the builder on a budget,I used it simply because it was convenient at the time. Pluses outweigh the negatives as far as I'm concerned.

A. price

B. performance

C. durability

As the dyno showed all these twats saying angle this and angle that are just that...twats. the manifold flows without restriction, If exhaust gas flowed in the opposite dierection the merge collector would be far more relevant, as it is 6 pipes feed in to the exhaust housing regardless of the shape of the merge.

I've run up 5 k on it so far. Its rock solid, no warping cracking leaking or shifting whatsoever.

Would I use one on my big engine...No. Plain and simple. Not because I m afraid it wouldnt work, merely because I cant get my head around a cheap job for a high end engine.

Bang for buck this is one of the best mods I have done to date.

Would be interesting if someone could mill out the bridge on those internal gates and weld a 6 bolt flange on there like stao does with the hypergears.

GTS scott, i can't get NS on my computer , what was the deal with JET 200?, did it pick up power with a 8 cm vs 10cm housing on the Sr20?

cheers

darren

Ahh I mixed Jez and Status' post and thought the latest talk was about TD06 20G setups.

I was thinking a 20G with 8cm housing, car is currently running some kind of Ebay GT3582R look alike turbo which is both very laggy and potentially a grenade. Really anything thats nicer to drive and going to be reliable would be good, obviously T3 flanged a must.

I'm going to be tuning it on a Dynapack, so should be looking at easily >220kw on 11psi.

Thinking about it further, does any of the Kando/Mitsi peoples think a TD06SL2-18G with 8cm housing could even work well for this setup - this is on a 2litre VTEC Honda running ~11psi for anyone who missed the first post I made about this.

Interesting to see the results. Good work on giving it a go. I would think you could get away with milling out all the centre/bridge and drilling and tapping an additional bolt hole for mounting a big bellmouth dump pipe. Or are you going to try and split the the gate and turbine gases?

I suggested that but he welded the blocking plate back on so still running the 3 bolt flange. He thinks he will gain a fair bit.

Will see when i tune it

Thinking about it further, does any of the Kando/Mitsi peoples think a TD06SL2-18G with 8cm housing could even work well for this setup - this is on a 2litre VTEC Honda running ~11psi for anyone who missed the first post I made about this.

From what I know the SL2 18g gives a more linear delivery than its 20g counterpart. But the only videos I have seen have been on mildly tuned 1JZ's. The outcome was as fast as the 20g from memory, but more of a passive aggressive approach rather than the brutal hit of the 20g.

Either way, your now talking about a result that doesnt warrant a big dirty TD06SL2 wheel. Here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/290677530717?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43adbb205d

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...