Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im pretty sure all the Kando options come with the Kamak performance thrust bearing - so that shouldnt be a worry.

However Stao has managed a good thing with the aero on his billet wheels, and I know he has applied that to a T67 along the way. The threads now bleed into eachother in many areas.

Anyone wanting a T67 would want to read the Hypergear thread also as I think he back to backs his billet T67 against another customers normal T67.

The billet compressor wheel if made into identical specification as cast wheel the difference is almost none exist.

The compressor wheel can only make a difference, with alterations to its wheel blade profile, hub profile. Those are possible because the billet material is stronger then cast, while the standard cast item is very conservative in its design for reliability. In this case compressor wheel names don't necessarily be matching its cast output, It is very possible that we can produce a 20G compressor wheel that matches the 25G's efficiency.

My goal in customized turbo design is in scarifies the least amount of resource for most of out put. Means greater area under power curve within usable rev range, and this is archiveble with customized compressor wheel and housings. Make a perfect compressor wheel comes into a lot of evaluations, the current 25G compressor wheel is the very first prototype yet to be trailed till tuner gets back. I'll be trying to get this turbocharger upto the 400rwkws on stock cams while reaching it below 7000RPMs.

Make a perfect compressor wheel comes into a lot of evaluations, the current 25G compressor wheel is the very first prototype yet to be trailed till tuner gets back. I'll be trying to get this turbocharger upto the 400rwkws on stock cams while reaching it below 7000RPMs.

now this bit interests me :) keen for the results on this...

The 25G comp wheel is in 78mm, its bit large for the turbine end and I'm very interested to know what sort of EGT you guys are getting as I've received couple of emails in relation of replacing cracked and broken T67 turbine wheels since the start of TDxx developments. But have not seen any using the 20G compressor setup.

I might want to reduce it to 74~76mms with a slightly lower blade profile for better torque and power within 7000RPMs rev range and lower EGT depending on how this one goes.

Yeh I'd be taking a hypergear option over a kando if I was looking today... Have a look at the SS2 ex gate results, it seems to make the power earlier on then fall off around 6500 where as the T67 dosen't seem to reach full potential until 7500 and beyond.. so realistically for a car with a stock rev limit I think the hypergear is the smarter option??

Kando is cheaper I think? but you get much better service before and after sale with the hypergear.

hey something just hit me, all the t67 results we have seen posted have been with Greddy style plenums...these are renowned for losing midrange torque while all the HG results we have seen are with a stock plenum and runners...

t67vs.jpg

looking at the chart and thats exactly where the power is missing...@ around 7000rpm it has caught up again and we know it will keep pulling to 8000rpm +....where HG turbo has well and truely fallen over...

So im gunna say im not yet convinced and the only way we can really solve this is to run a t67 with stock intake....any takers ;)

dont think so....thought he stole yours...

Yeh just had a look again looks like it was josh typeX results.. So you have a good point then, still a pretty big difference though! i'd certainly go back to the stock plenum if it helped the midrange to match that HG lol

has anybody tried the TD03-7g

i know this guy with a daewoo matiz..800cc 3 cylinders of lame supercar destroying awesomeness....do you think this will work should be good for at least 80hp yeah?

http://www.ebay.com....=item43b72c1729

I also found a gt15 for half the price good for 100-200hp..might be a little large though

Years ago, my mate fitted a Nissan Terrano turbo to his suzuki cappuccino, went hard on 20+psi with computer/injectors/bigger cooler

I have no idea what turbo is on them

edit: i did a quick google...loooks like it had a garrett Gt2052 on it..was fun, big ramp onto boost

Edited by jet_r31

The 25G comp wheel is in 78mm, its bit large for the turbine end and I'm very interested to know what sort of EGT you guys are getting as I've received couple of emails in relation of replacing cracked and broken T67 turbine wheels since the start of TDxx developments. But have not seen any using the 20G compressor setup.

I might want to reduce it to 74~76mms with a slightly lower blade profile for better torque and power within 7000RPMs rev range and lower EGT depending on how this one goes.

I havnt read all the pages but wondering what kando turbo would suit a 4L falcon if any, and would a kando give much flow in comparison to its competitors garrett and precision turbos if ran at under 10psi or are they similar to a gtx and needs minimum 20psi to feel them working.

Ford XR6 runs of a 82mm comp with a 1.06 turbine it is physically larger on both compressor and turbine end you need to run a much bigger turbo. years ago we've made a customized turbo based a GT45 1.26 twinscroll turbine and Garrett BRD351 compressor that have see 458rwkws on a Ford XR6 turbo with pretty good response.

Ford XR6 runs of a 82mm comp with a 1.06 turbine it is physically larger on both compressor and turbine end you need to run a much bigger turbo. years ago we've made a customized turbo based a GT45 1.26 twinscroll turbine and Garrett BRD351 compressor that have see 458rwkws on a Ford XR6 turbo with pretty good response.

that sounds impressive, but mines a daily driver and looking for a cheap setup with high response and working with stock auto so somthing like 200-240kw max on 8psi , will the kando turbo's do this or are they needing alot of boost?

that sounds impressive, but mines a daily driver and looking for a cheap setup with high response and working with stock auto so somthing like 200-240kw max on 8psi , will the kando turbo's do this or are they needing alot of boost?

All you need is a stock BA XR6 internally gated turbo. We've built one for a Auto Falcon last year made 311rwkws E85 with 11psi of boost, close to no lag.

hey something just hit me, all the t67 results we have seen posted have been with Greddy style plenums...these are renowned for losing midrange torque while all the HG results we have seen are with a stock plenum and runners...

looking at the chart and thats exactly where the power is missing...@ around 7000rpm it has caught up again and we know it will keep pulling to 8000rpm +....where HG turbo has well and truely fallen over...

So im gunna say im not yet convinced and the only way we can really solve this is to run a t67 with stock intake....any takers ;)

Mine has the stock manifold, i'll try and get the dyno sheet off the tuner.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...