Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TD06 SL2 25G, T67 or TD06H 25G ? as the first 2 are the same as far as i can see, some vary in comp covers

and the TD06H is always the bigger turbine as far as i can see in Kando speak, think that what was confusing Roy maybe, or maybe i am the one confused?, but it is confusing..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Yeh i know they are different Roy, but i think the poster was refering to the TD06 SL2 25G that kando sell,,and they are the same, the comp covers

are only different

He will do this one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270794579581?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

For $664 to your door this week if you pay through paypal

I want to buy tommorrow, not sure if i should buy that one, or this one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD06S-25G-T3-V-Band-/290603882502?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a9575806

Thoughts??, i want to put it on a standard manifold. One just looks prettier from all i can tell, i don't need to turn the earth power wise, would be happy

with 320ish rwkw on a standard manifold,on pump 98 with water/meth injection hard to ignore the cheap one for the price though.

cheers

darren

Looks prettier ... ??

one has a much smaller comp housing than the other..on the TD07, the comp housing is huge and wont easily fit on your stock manifold so I'd say get the other one it should fit with a 10mm spacer

this one..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD06S-25G-T3-V-Band-/290603882502?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a9575806

I I cant make sense of all the Kando turbos...in one part they are saying TD06S, the next part of the add they are saying TD06L2 etc?!?!?! To the best of my knowledge the TD06S is different to the TDO6H which is different to the TD06SH... basically in Greddy speak the commonly referred to:

- TD06-25G is the TD06SH turbine

- T67-25G is the TD06SL2 turbine

- TD06-20G is the TD06H turbine

From info I have collected over the years...

TD06h - 67 mm / 59 mm (12 blade)

TD06S - 65 / 55 mm (12 blade)

TD06 - 65 / 55 mm (12 blade)

TD06SL2 - 61 / 54 mm (11 blade)

H and SH are the same, just some people abbreviate it to H.

I think that they just made a mistake with the title of one of the listings where they called is a TD06S but it is actually an SL2 which they mention in the Spec's sheet.

Edited by D_Stirls

Got my motor running today. Kinaguwa looks good spinning finally.

Still waiting on cooler piping and cooler to be modified.

Nice! not long now to we see some results :D

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

uselss post, why bother.

sooooo...recomended boost is 22psi, when you gunna turn er up battery...:P

I was so keen to keep turning it up until it stopped making power but unfortunately the injectors maxed and the 170000km old valve springs were beginning to fade :( I have been keeping an eye on some upgrades so it might happen one day if I get bored enough....

Also for the haters noticed the JPP 180sx runs one of these turbo's http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/09/07/car-feature-gt-gt-jpp-180sx.aspx

I saw Luke Fink drive this thing up at WTAC and its insane!!

Nigel from ETS has also been running a Kando core in his SL2 for almost a year now http://engineeredtoslide.com/2010/10/turbo-in-a-can/

When is yours gonna be finished ARTZ????

Edited by battery

so whats the differance between theese and the genuine mitsu units? i only ask because we have a td06sl20g at work that has crapped the thust bearing, and to fix is over 2k but i see whole chra's for 500 dollars. whats the diff?

I was so keen to keep turning it up until it stopped making power but unfortunately the injectors maxed and the 170000km old valve springs were beginning to fade :( I have been keeping an eye on some upgrades so it might happen one day if I get bored enough....

Also for the haters noticed the JPP 180sx runs one of these turbo's http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/09/07/car-feature-gt-gt-jpp-180sx.aspx

I saw Luke Fink drive this thing up at WTAC and its insane!!

Nigel from ETS has also been running a Kando core in his SL2 for almost a year now http://engineeredtoslide.com/2010/10/turbo-in-a-can/

When is yours gonna be finished ARTZ????

shouldn't be too long..

do you remember if the oil lines they supplied fit straight up?

Dave, I thought these are made in Taiwan from ex-Mitsu tooling.

Pretty much this.

Mitsubishi sell all their tooling once it passes its very premature useby date.

Means you get a lot of OEM quality bits around.

The box says made in Taiwan assembled in Japan. Yet I have pretty much established the whole operation is based in Taiwan.

The QA process seems to be good, out of a very long trail of successful products there are only a handful of failures. From what I have seen warranty has never been an issue either.

shouldn't be too long..

do you remember if the oil lines they supplied fit straight up?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Garrett-T3-T4-Turbo-RB30-RB25-RB30-Oil-Feed-Fitting-/350356170487?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5192dae6f7

You need some like that. I took my line and existing fitting into a place in dandy on Bennett st and they sorted it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...