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well today i got the dump exhaust off..to fix the exhaust gasket leak.exhaust.. turns out there was maybe 1mm of the flange that WASNT leaking. When I pulled it off to fix it, it looks like the exhaust shop that did the exhaust did a dodgy, and shrunk the 3" to about 2.5" and put the stock flange back on (never taking it there again). Scotty the f**kn legend cut some of the exhaust off put it back to 3" with a new flange.. fixed.

Ok so made up a new gasket from Gasket material, with some gasket/exhaust seal. n put it back together..

it set.

Started the car.. i'de safely say about 50% of the turbo whine went away...sounds normal now..

still gonna take it to the turbo shop on monday to let him have a listen first..

once this all finished. i made some great souvlaki's and now im full and scotts so full he cant breathe!. goodnight Stagea owners.!

Glad to help.

You can cook those spicy souvos anytime mate, yum. :cheers: (sorry I know, you don't drink) :)

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I just get a black spray can and paint the i/c (just the front face) and piping black.

Isn't the stealth kit more expensive? Did they charge you the extra for it?

If not, I'd be spraying it yourself. Just use a satin finish.

did a service with Motul Chrono 300V + Greddy oil filter last weekend, i'm amazed at how smooth the car runs.

stewart warner boost gauge in, and reinstalled the foglights.

thinking about spraying the roof section between the rails gloss black - think it will look nice with the twin sunroofs tinted out. thoughts?

yes Ive always wanted a black roof between the rails, down the front pillars and over the bonnet

dayz S1 snow white.

and yeah the stageas Love the Motul 300v and Royal Purple.

anyone seen the 14point7.com widebands?

$100 for the controller, $50 for the o2 sensor

diy (basic soldering)

will probably be my next purchase (eventually)

also, mine is running pretty averagely, bogs down on cold start, feels very doughy, hesitating a bit :-/

i have a receipt for iridiums fitted about 20,000kms ago

i think i found it tho, someone has previously cut and replaced some of the wire going to the afm but only crimped it

so i soldered some new wire in and now it seems good :)

solder adds resistance to the wire, hence the crimp :)

Also on thin gauge wire, if too much heat is used, soldering can remove the annealing (which makes the wire malleable) from the copper and make the strands more susceptible to fatigue breakage.:thumbsup:

Edited by Daleo

Yep, just some Jaycar 5awg wire and some electrical ring connectors!

what do you ground?

as to the soldering, slightly higher resistance is better that random connections

i'll measure the resistance across it later

Recieved a box today containing my R33 calipers!

Got all the lines, shims and clips, and as a bonus what appear to be a virtually brand new set of brake pads :thumbsup:

Now for some offset brackets & bigger rotors...

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