Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haven't ordered anything yet, but it's good to know that there are options..

http://fenixautopart.com/products_info.asp?selectclassid=002001028&id=242

Anyone put an alloy radiator in an m35 yet?

Fenix are a good choice - made in NZ, not china, and good local support. Discounts for NSW club members too.

funnily enough, the only email I have is Christiaan [email protected].

Or,

Fenix Autoparts Distributors Pty Ltd

(02) 9648 4668

U 45/ 2 Slough Ave

SilverwaterNSW2128

:google:

350z radiators have the cap on the wrong side.

It will foul with your intake funnel into the airbox.

I am led to believe that the pins at the bottom of the tank that slip into the support holes are located a little too far forward or back (can't remember) on the 350z radiators.

ok installed the castor arm bushes tonight. massive change in the car. worth every cent!

also put the rest of the cat-back exhaust on to see the sound, not a bad note coming from it

aaaand put on the blitz BOV, i get more flutter, but im cool with that. it scares the old ladies around my suburb lol

Sooo... Iain... you'd have a spare stock BOV now, right? :whistling:

Castor arm bushes are those poly bushes Craig was doing, right? Were yours just shagged or are the poly ones that much different?

Sooo... Iain... you'd have a spare stock BOV now, right? :whistling:

Castor arm bushes are those poly bushes Craig was doing, right? Were yours just shagged or are the poly ones that much different?

same poly bush's.....accept he got the set that help fix the pull to the left.

funnily enough, the only email I have is Christiaan [email protected].

Or,

Fenix Autoparts Distributors Pty Ltd

(02) 9648 4668

U 45/ 2 Slough Ave

SilverwaterNSW2128

As Duncan would know as an SAU NSW member I fitted a 42mm one to the R33 which required no trimming at all but needed a little fiddling with the aircon temp sensor (some R33's have no issues with the sensor).

I also fitted the same one to the stagea which required a small amount of trimming of the central part of the shroud (due to the extra thickness of the core).

Both are working well and quality looks good. Pricing for SAU members and speed of delivery get a tick from me.

Sooo... Iain... you'd have a spare stock BOV now, right? :whistling:

Castor arm bushes are those poly bushes Craig was doing, right? Were yours just shagged or are the poly ones that much different?

yeah i do, another non-farting one lol

yup those are the bushes craig was talking about. mine didnt appear to be stuffed, but it turns out they were. much difference? not really, only a HUGE difference

Thanks I'll try him tomorrow.

Let us know how you get on; it's on my list to do before summer.

The OEM rad is barely adequate in hot weather, and nowhere near good enough once you put a bigger intercooler in front of it; which is also on my list...

Let us know how you get on; it's on my list to do before summer.

The OEM rad is barely adequate in hot weather, and nowhere near good enough once you put a bigger intercooler in front of it; which is also on my list...

Fenix don't do a full alloy radiator to suit M35/V35. They have them listed but they are just 350z ones. Full credit though, once I got onto them the guys were pretty helpful and obviously didn't want to sell me the wrong thing (like SO many people I've spoken to in the last day).

Top of my list right now is a Koyo V35 radiator. Wbperformance.com will do them for USD $405 shipped, just not sure how trustworthy his site is. Otherwise USD $452.50 shipped on eBay.

Since you're in Adelaide, did you just call someone like Tonkins or Adrad? Adrad are Koyo dealers too.

Although I'm rapidly finding out that even with trade accounts a lot of this stuff is cheaper overseas...

Way cheaper. Just rang a place that Adrad referred me to and not only could he not find a part, I asked for a ball park price on a R33 Koyo full alloy radiator (that was what he was trying to sell me despite saying "V35, G35" over and over and over) which was $900.

Tonkins as in the car audio place?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...