Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks good Dale, probly be even better if you took those blanking plates out

Nah, it looks pants with them out!:blink: I didn't have them for a week or so, even with mesh covering the spaces; it just didn't look right.

You know what would look great in there... Some spotties. :nyaanyaa:

Yeah yeah, but I think spotties would be a better choice personally... :rolleyes:

I've got the switch & relay parts C/O ironpaw & Prince Skyline, and I'll get my guru mate to sort out the wiring (cos I'm lazy & he owes me a favour) so it'll happen in time.:thumbsup:

Dale will get some spotties when the Damn bar gets on a f*king boat....arrgh

No stress from my end; it takes however long it takes.:cheers:

Hey Dale, I like the look with the support cut out of the front, and checked mine & it looks like the mesh goes right across in one piece (never noticed when I had it out recently).

Can you send me a close up pic of how the bottom cut turned out? I'm concerned that will leave a rough/dodgy edge visible, if I don't have a specialty cutting tool like you used.

Hey Dale, I like the look with the support cut out of the front, and checked mine & it looks like the mesh goes right across in one piece (never noticed when I had it out recently).

Can you send me a close up pic of how the bottom cut turned out? I'm concerned that will leave a rough/dodgy edge visible, if I don't have a specialty cutting tool like you used.

I'll take one later today & post it up. When I did the towbar cutout, I rough cut with a hacksaw blade then used a Stanley or scalpel blade to shave the cut smooth, works well; it's very soft plastic. As long as you touch up the paint on the cut edge; it'll be virtually invisible.

Hey Dale, I like the look with the support cut out of the front, and checked mine & it looks like the mesh goes right across in one piece (never noticed when I had it out recently).

Can you send me a close up pic of how the bottom cut turned out? I'm concerned that will leave a rough/dodgy edge visible, if I don't have a specialty cutting tool like you used.

Excuse the dirt.blush.gif

post-61153-0-97616200-1318631485_thumb.jpg

Seriously, unless you crawl around on the floor; you can't even see it.thumbsup.gif

Thanks Dale. You did a good job; very neat. Did you colour the edge at all (permanent marker, black paint) or is that the raw colour?

Since mine is silver I may have to find a creative way to camo the edge - if it is visible at all.

It looks like Dale has recessed it a bit, so there wouldn't be anything exposed I wouldn't think.

Might have to do this myself, good work Dale! :thumbsup:

What have I done to my Stagea? Pulled out of the SAUSA track day because I have to go to Sydney for work >_<

But I did order my F con V Pro setup... so all is not lost! :cheers:

So while I pulled out of the track day, next time I go I'll have the shift kit, trans cooler, fuel system and computer in, and will be running E85 :banana:

Really can't be bothered fitting the rear shocks and brakes today though. Two weeks of cold and flu backed up by a sinus infection will do that... :down:

Cheers Guys, I'm getting used to carving up expensive bumper bars now...whistling.gif

There's a ridge about half a mm high from the level of the grille aperture, as I didn't want to carve into the paint, and I've just temporarily used a black marker to cover the line of grey primer that the cut exposed.

The plastic is black, but a paint touch up pen will hide the evidence perfectly. The indent against the mesh is just the way the plastic is moulded, but it's only about 1mm.

Looking forward to hearing how your F-con goes Ryan.thumbsup.gif

Cheers Guys, I'm getting used to carving up expensive bumper bars now...whistling.gif

There's a ridge about half a mm high from the level of the grille aperture, as I didn't want to carve into the paint, and I've just temporarily used a black marker to cover the line of grey primer that the cut exposed.

The plastic is black, but a paint touch up pen will hide the evidence perfectly. The indent against the mesh is just the way the plastic is moulded, but it's only about 1mm.

Looking forward to hearing how your F-con goes Ryan.thumbsup.gif

Same... Thanks to Cam for all his help so far. Should be a bloody good thing when it's all up and running! Can't wait!

Gave the m35 the 8ltrs of E10 100oct from emptying the tank in the 180SX before it was filled with E85. Just a pity it's raining so I can't really test drive it.

Edited by slippylotion

Changed the oil - was hoping not to have to do it before the turbo kit, but when it was dropped at the workshop I got all embarrassed and felt sorry for herwub.gif

It was so black- now its fresh.

Also did the ancillary belts. Pretty painless really. They were starting to squeak and piss me off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...