Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good luck Duncan. Im still waiting on mine since ringlands broke back in early April. Should be ready for run-in any day now.

New forged 87mm CP pistons, complete block overhaul to suit, check of head (previously ported, with tomei cams/springs) etc.

Looking forward to being mobile again :) Its been a while

Nice. I lived in renmark for years and most of my family still does.

Yeah my dad is in Berri. Nice place up there, good to get away from it without too much of a drive.

Front of my Stagea is trashed! So many bugs. Waiting for the sun to go down so I can give it a proper wash..

Andrew I was using the one from down your way, it developed a major leak on the dyno. Not actually sure whose the new one is.

I actually preferred the section from Broke to Wollemi, it is very tight, narrow, and no speed advisory signs to give each corner away ;) The old pac was the most painful, it is signposted 60 from Calga to Berowra nowdays

No doubt the speed limits will keep dropping on these "tourist" roads....enjoy them while you can!

Finally took a photo of my trans cooler for Ryan. Ignore the white spray all over everything - I was mid way through trying to get rid of all of the bugs from the front end of the car and there was plenty of overspray. :rolleyes:

NOAKbl.jpg

Got the new 3.538 diffs in.....got some good umph now!!!!

My fears of the speedo being out are cured.....speedo and gps are exactly the same differences as they were before.

Just need to get on a dyno to sort out the tune again.

Edited by Jetwreck

Andrew I was using the one from down your way, it developed a major leak on the dyno. Not actually sure whose the new one is.

I actually preferred the section from Broke to Wollemi, it is very tight, narrow, and no speed advisory signs to give each corner away ;) The old pac was the most painful, it is signposted 60 from Calga to Berowra nowdays

No doubt the speed limits will keep dropping on these "tourist" roads....enjoy them while you can!

gotya, odd though, normally pretty good

Got the new 3.538 diffs in.....got some good umph now!!!!

My fears of the speedo being out are cured.....speedo and gps are exactly the same differences as they were before.

Just need to get on a dyno to sort out the tune again.

and i got an LSD diff :P

also greased up ALL the rubber and poly bushes under the car. its quiet as now

craig, that creaking you heard was the brakes. they do that when cold.

the ass comes out nicely on corners now :)

Got the new 3.538 diffs in.....got some good umph now!!!!

My fears of the speedo being out are cured.....speedo and gps are exactly the same differences as they were before.

Just need to get on a dyno to sort out the tune again.

So the speed signal comes from the wheel sensors? Nice.

Now to see if 4.11's fit. :devil:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...