Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My missus didn't know what to say when I told her; sent me a message when she got to work, telling me to do whatever I need to make it right. She's cool like that, no "It's just a car" from her.

Aaaahh, so you have an good/understanding one as well thumbsup.gif

Edited by iamhe77

Mate that straight up sucks. Anything else wrong with the body at all? Worth scratching it some more and making an insurance claim?

Lol, no; the rest of the car is basically flawless. That's why I'm so cranky. A couple of the Sydney guys can probably vouch for the paint.whistling.gif

What is this issue you're referring to Dale?

The clear coat on all of the V35/M35's is very soft. It's very easy to mar the paint; and it shows up worst on dark blue, and particularly black. It also doesn't appear very UV resistant.

There is actually a factory option; "Clear Hardcoat" (I think that's what it's called) which is a kind of paint protection that most owners optioned on darker colours, but it is sacrificial, and eventually wears off.

It's a bit of a double edged sword though, being soft; it can take a knock and not crack, and it doesn't take a huge amount of muscle to do Paint Correction.

My painter offered to rub back the clear and spray a House of Kolor clear and then wet sand, another coat, wet sand and correct.

The HOK clear is a very high quality UV stable clear and it is much much harder than the factory clear. He called it a "Diamond Hard" clear. It would resist scratching much more and would be basically a show car quality finish.

Whilst being very tempting; I tend to think this may make it even more of a target than it already is, and the finish would require the at least the same level of care as it does now; very likely more.

I'm not sure I could deal with slowly covering it in stonechips though.

I think there's probably a happy medium somewhere in between, I'll have to sit down & have a chat with him. The advantage is; he absolutely loves the car, and knows I'm bordering on obsessive about it too.

Edited by Daleo

Aaaahh, so you have an good/understanding one as well thumbsup.gif

Lol Cam, I think I've worn her down with it over time. yes.gif

She rolls her eyes and occasionally cracks it, but she rather likes driving around in a spotless, well maintained car while some of her friends drive unreliable, dirty shitboxes.whistling.gif

I think my front radar grill would look funny with no badge at all, the infiniti badge still makes people say wtf is that

Yes- done that to my ARX not long ago - looks like DOREIMON lol then I put it back

The clear coat on all of the V35/M35's is very soft. It's very easy to mar the paint; and it shows up worst on dark blue, and particularly black. It also doesn't appear very UV resistant.

Very interesting! I know All Type had trouble really getting a good shine out of my paintjob. Said it took them three times longer than usual. S'pose that had something to do with it.

Very interesting! I know All Type had trouble really getting a good shine out of my paintjob. Said it took them three times longer than usual. S'pose that had something to do with it.

Yeah, the detailer that originally corrected my car said every time he went to buff the polish residue off the car; he scratched it.pinch.gif

Dale that sucks mate. Especially so, since you spent that time polishing and buffing- I know how much you care, because I know how hard it is to keep a black car.

At least it sounds like you have some contacts in the paint and panel to sort it out. Where did it get scratched if you don't mind me asking- it will go onto my suburb avoidance listtongue.gif

I have a sticker saying 5 year coat or something like that on my car - is that what you guys are calling dealer paint protection?

A suspension guy says he has found a replacement tie rod end that matches the stocker

Should have it tmrw, so will post the part number when I get it :-)

Saving so much money not driving it tho, and the r31 is getting some love too

Dale that sucks mate. Especially so, since you spent that time polishing and buffing- I know how much you care, because I know how hard it is to keep a black car.

At least it sounds like you have some contacts in the paint and panel to sort it out. Where did it get scratched if you don't mind me asking- it will go onto my suburb avoidance listtongue.gif

I have a sticker saying 5 year coat or something like that on my car - is that what you guys are calling dealer paint protection?

Cheers Alex; been garnering a bit of sympathy today from friends and family.:thanks:

Yeah, have been planning to get the door rubbing strips colour coded and the plasitc panel at the base of the hatch repainted; once the new bars went on, they looked a little average...

So I might actually get the whole hatch debadged and re-done; no need to remove parts if he's going to have the whole car. Going to see what the cost is and decide from there; but I think I'll just pay my excess for the rear quarter repair and then add in what I need to get it all done.

It was done in a carpark behind my local shops in Springwood; miles out of the way, and the same cars were parked both sides when I got back.

That's what shits me; an accident, or a scratch from a bag I can deal with, even if they don't leave details. But this was vindictive; someone saw the car, went out of their way to walk over, deliberately got something out , scratched the car, and walked off. Weak flamin mongrel.

38709110150475868546424.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

38836510150475868781424.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Looks good :thumbsup: The 10mm offset change makes all the difference; much nicer wheels.

Springwood QLD?

If so I'll have to keep an eye out next time I'm up there - my sister lives just near there.

Springwood NSW :thumbsup:.

Might be a little out of your way.:whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...