Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trans cooler installed.

post-76144-0-41294600-1322723490_thumb.jpg

Reprogrammed valve body in transit from Jetwreck. Thanks Craig, you're a champ to fit me in so quick :thumbsup: .

The other day i had my tailgate open at the super market, closed the tailgate and there was a loud bang. Then tried to open the tailgate and it was really heavy......The strut had SNAPPED on the ram and snapped the bolt in the thread on the roof side post-41430-0-79806300-1322732411_thumb.jpg pinch.gif

So I sourced a new strut (second hand), drilled out the old bolt...sort of, snapped an ezy out trying to get it out then had to drill/dremel and heli-coil.....C#*T.......but at least now its all sweet again though.

Adjusted tail gate glass as it was sitting out from the rubber seal 5mm.

And installed another screen that I scored for free from a mate (sound doesn't work out of it) installed new pure sine inverter in the back of the car and a ps3 in the tray above my spare wheel, just velcroed to a chunk of rubber then to the tray.......

post-41430-0-42370400-1322732736_thumb.jpg

Just need to work out how to hook up the ariel to the "play tv" unit for digital tv through the ps3

I finally got the 34 rims on. They actually clear the brakes AND have enough room for wheel balancing weights....big step forward in my world....

looks good :)

Which trans cooler did you go with Leon? I got my B & M today, just need to make time to fit that and the shift kit.

Also got my fuel filter, Nismo thermostat, and HKS sensors. Streeter excellent as awesome.

Moving this weekend, but once I've moved I should have time to get into fitting some of the thousands or parts I've built up again.

The other day i had my tailgate open at the super market, closed the tailgate and there was a loud bang. Then tried to open the tailgate and it was really heavy......The strut had SNAPPED on the ram and snapped the bolt in the thread on the roof side post-41430-0-79806300-1322732411_thumb.jpg pinch.gif

So I sourced a new strut (second hand), drilled out the old bolt...sort of, snapped an ezy out trying to get it out then had to drill/dremel and heli-coil.....C#*T.......but at least now its all sweet again though.

Adjusted tail gate glass as it was sitting out from the rubber seal 5mm.

Had a similar thing happen to mine about 2 years ago. You were a bit more resourceful in getting the bolt out as I had to pay some one to get mine out and that was expensive. Replacement bolt was only $5 from memory.

Which trans cooler did you go with Leon? I got my B & M today, just need to make time to fit that and the shift kit.

Also got my fuel filter, Nismo thermostat, and HKS sensors. Streeter excellent as awesome.

Moving this weekend, but once I've moved I should have time to get into fitting some of the thousands or parts I've built up again.

There's always a story, lol... I've had one in the shed for 6 months or more but now with the fmic inplace it was too big to fit nicely. I went to a local auto parts store & bought a generic one (Davies Craig brand I think), chosen purely on size & availability. I figured with all the ATF drained, there was no time like the present to plumb it in. The instructions were adamant it had to go after the radiator for the coolest possible fluid to return to the trans. I did the opposite, as per a fairly common consensus on here, & went trans > cooler > radiator > trans.

I've been keeping count mate, & I think your estimate of parts ready to go on the car is low :P. Good luck with the move. Do you realise that if you installed everything you wouldn't have to move them??

Thanks for rubbing in in you bastard! :nyaanyaa:

I have a better plan than that... half the bits are sitting at dads work next to his hoist. The rest will relocate there shortly, and I'll fit them there too. Next to fit is the cruise control, controls on one day, rest on the next. Hoping to fit the shift kit and trans cooler together after that, then fit and rewire fuel pump. TBH my B & M trans cooler looks pretty similar to yours, except mine is black and everyone knows black is cooler than silver.

Thanks for rubbing in in you bastard! :nyaanyaa:

I have a better plan than that... half the bits are sitting at dads work next to his hoist. The rest will relocate there shortly, and I'll fit them there too. Next to fit is the cruise control, controls on one day, rest on the next. Hoping to fit the shift kit and trans cooler together after that, then fit and rewire fuel pump. TBH my B & M trans cooler looks pretty similar to yours, except mine is black and everyone knows black is cooler than silver.

Good to see you have a plan :happy: .To have a hoist (drools) would be great, but so far I've managed most things on ramps. Call me when doing the cruise control if you've got questions.

10 secs with the spray can & I've got a 'cool' B & M. Nice, thanks for the upgrade suggestion, lol.

Had a similar thing happen to mine about 2 years ago. You were a bit more resourceful in getting the bolt out as I had to pay some one to get mine out and that was expensive. Replacement bolt was only $5 from memory.

Yeah It was a bitch to get out, they do them up farking tight from the factory..... I haven't snapped an easy out since I was an aprentice :mad: , so I was pretty annoyed at the time...... I made sure the second hand strut came with the bolt though.

Good to see you have a plan :happy: .To have a hoist (drools) would be great, but so far I've managed most things on ramps. Call me when doing the cruise control if you've got questions.

10 secs with the spray can & I've got a 'cool' B & M. Nice, thanks for the upgrade suggestion, lol.

TBH your trans cooler looks identical, except that it's silver instead of black.

With the cruise control, looking at your thread installing the buttons is pretty much plug and play now you've supplied wires with the right pins on them, right?

With the cruise control, looking at your thread installing the buttons is pretty much plug and play now you've supplied wires with the right pins on them, right?

Plug & play, sure...:whistling: Nah, you'll be fine, but you've got my mobile number so please call/text if you have any questions. Just watch the removal of the Torx bolts in the steering wheel. I recommend turning the wheel so you can get at each one from out the drivers door. You need to ensure you get good access & be straight on when you apply torque to undo. A guy yesterday may have rounded off the inside of one of his.

Yeah It was a bitch to get out, they do them up farking tight from the factory..... I haven't snapped an easy out since I was an aprentice :mad: , so I was pretty annoyed at the time...... I made sure the second hand strut came with the bolt though.

Want to come and do mine, it snapped weeks ago. Lol

Havn,t broken a bolt yet, but the struts seem to grind and then clunk. Have a spare tail gate with struts so willtake them off and fit up.

The other day i had my tailgate open at the super market, closed the tailgate and there was a loud bang. Then tried to open the tailgate and it was really heavy......The strut had SNAPPED on the ram and snapped the bolt in the thread on the roof side post-41430-0-79806300-1322732411_thumb.jpg pinch.gif

So I sourced a new strut (second hand), drilled out the old bolt...sort of, snapped an ezy out trying to get it out then had to drill/dremel and heli-coil.....C#*T.......but at least now its all sweet again though.

Adjusted tail gate glass as it was sitting out from the rubber seal 5mm.

And installed another screen that I scored for free from a mate (sound doesn't work out of it) installed new pure sine inverter in the back of the car and a ps3 in the tray above my spare wheel, just velcroed to a chunk of rubber then to the tray.......

post-41430-0-42370400-1322732736_thumb.jpg

Just need to work out how to hook up the ariel to the "play tv" unit for digital tv through the ps3

Looks good. How do you access your a/c controls and the other controls?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...