Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i didnt know your turbo was on the way out leon, damn!

dont bother with new arms, just replace the bushes. unless you want stock bushings, then i have a pair of arms :P

Yeah, I was hoping it would hang around a bit longer. I think if I didn't play around with it (read add boost etc), it'd still be going ok.

In the end I couldn't drive it without plumes of white smoke every time I lifted off. Funny, the cars got 99,xxx km's, and everyone said to factor in a turbo change at 100k, lol. Was planning to prove everyone wrong, but couldn't help myself - had to push it....

I have new bushes on the way courtesy of Dale. Arms look straight, just not located in right place.

Are you still going Hypergear rebuild Leon?

Did my final prep for the SAUSA track day today - replaced the oil and filter, fitted a power steering cooler and replaced the fluid.

Also noticed that I've got a set of semi slicks on the car - once the car was up on the hoist noticed the rears are almost on the tread bars, so will be replacing shortly.

Couple of things do to now, replace the drivers side inner CV boot and replace tyres (and upgrade to 18" wheels), before I get back to upgrades.

Funny, the cars got 99,xxx km's, and everyone said to factor in a turbo change at 100k, lol. Was planning to prove everyone wrong, but couldn't help myself - had to push it....

Well i have definitely proven everyone wrong. 305,000 klm's - stock turbo.

Ever since i got it @ 132,XXXklm's (previous owner did not rebuild the turbo), I put it straight to 12psi.

I have always done 10,000k oil/filter changes (motul 8100 excess / ryco filter) and i always make sure my last 5minutes of driving are tame and to leave the turbo timer running for 1 minute.

Seeing as my turbo is that ceramic/nylon mixture I am quite surprised. I bet i have now jinxed myself and tomorrow it will die...

Edited by Jezboosted

Yeah Ryan, Hypergear rebuild like sky^rkt, but not as wild as his. I hear he's aiming for a big number from the stock housing. Will be interesting to hear how it drives when finished. Mine should be almost as responsive as the stock one, but with a bit more puff up top & no puff out the exhaust, I hope.

Let us know how your track day turns out. Sounds like fun.

So I've modified and painted a Dayz bar.

Plastic Dayz bar with some previous damage. I removed the centre number plate bracket and recess the number plate in the front cover and painted it up. Came up ok but I rushed the colour coat and got some crap in it. Will have ot come off the car again to be fixed.

The bar when I fitted up the cooler.

IMG00319-20111215-2118.jpg

Final mock up before glassing.

fc04e73f.jpg

Progress and final before paint prep.

b68958d8.jpg

3d6d3f2d.jpg

4123597b.jpg

Painted and fitted

2f1290e5.jpg

34e982ba.jpg

ef6503f4.jpg

SAUSA track day today at Mallala.

First session was shit. Two offs, one due to tyres through turn two, and one when the Trans wouldn't shift down.

from there on it was awesome. Car was relatively trouble free, despite the shitty tyres. Brakes were awesome, but front wheels were covered in dust, rears clean.

Only real issue was the Trans. By the end of the day the 'manual' mode wouldn't shift down at all, but it was fine in Drive. I'm guessing shift kit and Trans cooler will fix this? Anyone with one, does it actually shift when you tell it?

I also had issues with the shitty GPS timing app I was using. Best time it recorded was 1:36.5, which doesn't seem too bad for a first attempt.

Tyres, shift kit and F-con before next time!

I'm guessing shift kit and Trans cooler will fix this? Anyone with one, does it actually shift when you tell it?

Not really, it wont kick down unless you are going slow enough, buggered if I know why as it will kick down when you least expect it on its own.

The shift kit makes the gear changes firmer but the stock ecu still backs out all the timing between gears. Fcon will fix that though. ;)

Turbo is out finally. Thanks to Scotty & Jetwreck for their occasional pearls of wisdom. Hypergear one hasn't shown up yet. Hopefully tomorrow so I can staert putting it together before I forget where eveything goes.

I can't believe there are people who do this more than once!

No problem Leon, not a job I would recommend people do themselves as you found out. lol. Just hope the mani studs stay tight on yours, Ive had a few come loose now without those copper coated nuts holding them tight. If not you will get the dreaded gasket squeal and have to do the job again. :no:

when they get sprayed and the rear wing and other bits are on the car I will post up pics of my NM35 N250R WB LM!

Received my F Con Harness today ;)

Also bought a bonnet today :whistling: Would probably look good on your car Craig....and it is already black!!!

Received my F Con Harness today ;)

Also bought a bonnet today :whistling: Would probably look good on your car Craig....and it is already black!!!

Bastard!.....it would look good!!!! Would....lol!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...