Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks like what happens when only tap water is used instead of a coolant/demineralised water mix.

Thanks for lowering my heart rate a bit, only had it for a week, and I have to start a gearbox swap on my Jeep.

When I drained it there was only a very faint smell of antifreeze, like it had a bottle of premix put in then topped up with tap water.

Coolant also inhibits corrosion, so first step would be to thoroughly flush and then fill with appropriate coolant/demineralised water mix IMO.

Thats the plan, I think Ill run through some coolant treatment stuff before aswell for good measure. Do the thermostat at the same time.

Thats the plan, I think Ill run through some coolant treatment stuff before aswell for good measure. Do the thermostat at the same time.

Also - take some of the smaller coolant lines off, and the heater core lines and flush them through - you may find a lot of crap floating around in the wee little areas and corners of the system. I flush my heater core out when I change coolant and usually some shit comes out.

Its important to get good flow around the system because certain valve thermostats open and close based on it.

Sent out back up turbo for rebuild today; should see it back early next week.

Also, finally reassembled and fitted my R34 GTSt calipers and rotors! :banana:

These were stripped and bead blasted, then coated in a 600deg ceramic coating; that is impervious to chemical and brake fluid attack, so they should be near on indestructible, and look great for ages.

Rotors were basically brand new OEM Nissan, and since they're a nice high carbon content steel, I decided to use them, so these were also bead blasted, coated, then sent out for machining and slotting.

Pics;

post-61153-0-94657700-1342426357_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-59935000-1342426373_thumb.jpg

post-61153-0-89505100-1342426402_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-73526900-1342426427_thumb.jpg

post-61153-0-25100600-1342426446_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-13960500-1342426472_thumb.jpg

post-61153-0-73737600-1342426491_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-38380200-1342426509_thumb.jpg

For anyone thinking of using the 310mm R34 GTSt brake upgrade; you will need to cut away or remove the backing plates from the front hubs; as they foul the rotors.

Not a big deal, but you'll need to be handy with a grinder to do a neat job.

Also; I remove the double flare seat from the brake line thread, this means you don't need to butcher your banjo's to fit the OEM lines. You can just use a small ezy out, or a self tapper to yank it out.

I had expected them to be a nightmare to bleed; given they were completely dry internally, but they were probably the easiest brake bleed I've ever done! Only took around 5 mins a side; and the pedal came up great.

Still bedding the unknown original pads ATM; and I'll be using a fresh new set of Remsa's from GSL Rallysport by the end of the week, so I'm not sure what the power will be like, but they certainly seems decent so far.

Edited by Daleo

Looks great Dale! Stone shields are for pussys anyway :)

You didn't want to wait till you got new pads to bed them in? I heard that brakes like having the one pad compound applied to the surface. Brakes are a dark art to me - so many different opinions, I dunno what right. There is a lot of BS floating around out there I think.

One thing I haven't got right, and effects things, is the wheel nut torque can cause shudder and warp in discs. Sigh. Fark I hate brakes.

Looks great Dale! Stone shields are for pussys anyway :)

You didn't want to wait till you got new pads to bed them in? I heard that brakes like having the one pad compound applied to the surface. Brakes are a dark art to me - so many different opinions, I dunno what right. There is a lot of BS floating around out there I think.

One thing I haven't got right, and effects things, is the wheel nut torque can cause shudder and warp in discs. Sigh. Fark I hate brakes.

The pads aren't a big issue really; I'm not actually "bedding" these pads (heat cycling to transfer pad material on to the rotors) which is what makes the brakes work properly.

The friction of the pads pressing against the rotor is not what makes brakes work; it's the grabbing and breaking of bonds between the pad material deposited on the rotor surface and the pad itself.

You are right about the incompatibility of differing pad materials; but 30 km of driving, with maybe 4 light brake applications isn't going to be an issue. You really need a proper heat cycle bed in, and a few hundred kays of driving.

I've never really heard about wheel nut torque being particularly critical; but a wild variation might be an issue. I've never used anything but a wheel brace or a breaker bar & socket.

The one that does fool the younger players, is the effect a dud wheel bearing can have; brakes will develop a shudder over 5000km and rotors need machining; only to develop a shudder after another 5000km.

The other is the fact that discs rarely actually warp; the shudder you feel is almost never a disc with axial runout; it is almost always an uneven build up of pad material on the rotor, or a hard spot on the rotor that has a different coefficient of friction to the rest of the rotor.

This can also manifest in severe chatter when attempting to machine the rotor.

Dale, what specs are you getting the turbo built to?

I've ended up going with the tried and true "Sierra Stage 2" which ironically; is almost identical in wheel size to a 2871.

I spent a good piece of time today speaking to the turbo builder, and looking at a number of different impellers and turbines to demonstrate his viewpoint.

I was pretty sold, as he was the only one that would actually justify his selection; rather than just "This is what we use."

The main reason I didn't end up going with the 2860 was the fact that he doesn't believe there is enough material in the housings to guarantee that it can be machined accurately to take the 28 series core. This is why the common choice is the 30 series Garrett core; even though for most people, it's a bit big for good response.

At the end of the day I'm satisfied it will do what I want, and I've essentially made it so I'll need to do a bit of tuning to get the best out of it; which is what my tinkering mind wanted to do anyway.

That, and I will now be able to make lag based excuses about why my car can't win a drag race. :P

TL;DR?

I know SFA about brakes, and even less about turbos...

Great post Dale. I read the same thing regarding warp vs build up. I have certainly suffered the build up before but thankfully seemed to have wiped themselves.

It was an IS200 that was really fussy about nut torque. Had new discs on it, only to warp quickly. Once we dealt with that and went factory on the torque via wrench, was all good.

I'm really yet to give the sumitomos/PMus a good long hammering in the Stagea, to see what they do when really hot, but they are certainly a good upgrade over stock.

Stage 2- that's the same as what is on andy's old arx I think. Worked well on that I believe.

Dale, now I know why you sounded confident about getting the turbo back early next week, lol.

Looking forward to the first impressions report when you get it in.

Edited by Commsman

finally got around to purchasing some injectors for my build. bought a set of Sard 650cc injectors at a really good price :D they should go well with the walbro i think. got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in, just not hooked up yet, need to get a z32 afm, and purchase my turbo, then into DMD Tuning for a nistune for a hopeful 280rwkw.

Great post Dale. I read the same thing regarding warp vs build up. I have certainly suffered the build up before but thankfully seemed to have wiped themselves.

It was an IS200 that was really fussy about nut torque. Had new discs on it, only to warp quickly. Once we dealt with that and went factory on the torque via wrench, was all good.

I'm really yet to give the sumitomos/PMus a good long hammering in the Stagea, to see what they do when really hot, but they are certainly a good upgrade over stock.

Stage 2- that's the same as what is on andy's old arx I think. Worked well on that I believe.

Maybe the IS uses a thin flange on the hub; this might account for the fussiness regarding wheel nut tension.

The Sierra is what Andy was using, not sure if he was using the S1 or S2 spec. Also Craig thinks Spoolin has the same. I guess we'll see.

Also having the rear housing ceramic coated once I get it back.

Dale, now I know why you sounded confident about getting the turbo back early next week, lol.

Looking forward to the first impressions report when you get it in.

Lol, I'm pretty lucky being so close to a couple of turbo specialists; at least I can save a bit not having to freight it all over the place.

Craig was also very helpful; listening to my mad ramblings over the last few days, thanks mate.

finally got around to purchasing some injectors for my build. bought a set of Sard 650cc injectors at a really good price :D they should go well with the walbro i think. got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in, just not hooked up yet, need to get a z32 afm, and purchase my turbo, then into DMD Tuning for a nistune for a hopeful 280rwkw.

what turbs ya going to run? Auto/ manual keep us posted

Still kicking man, trucks going well, needs to be louder tho, the twin 4" pipes are too quiet. Lol

You sold the rx4 yet?

yeah not sold yet only advertised them in sa section eoi really want them to go to a good home. and between the ute the stag and baby number 3 on the way i got enough on my plate with out contemplating the 4s

what turbs ya going to run? Auto/ manual keep us posted

i have an rs4s, so factory manual. im pretty much sold on a hypergear ATR43G3 with a .82b internally gated housing. i have an r33 aswell that i went all out on last time, and im sick of the defects, so im trying to get as much out of the stag as i can and keep it as stock looking as possible. i should easily make 250rwkw @ 18psi with what ive got according to DMD tuning but ill wait and see i guess, if it falls short, i might look at getting some poncams put in it.

my main concern atm is my clutch, its feels great but im not sure if its stock, i might have to try and have a look, it had a few mods when it came to me from japan, so im not sure what its got in it, if i need to replace it, im looking at an NPC organic single with flywheel.

Edited by OMY31T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...