Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I like your style. I want to fit an oil pressure/temp gauge somewhere, might try and move the DVD ROM, but I'm keeping the factory screen.

Picked the car up from AM Performance tonight. Andrew had pulled off the intake and traced the flange, so while he gets the flanges laser cut I get the car back so I can change the belts and do some other bits.

Was good to get it back and go for a proper drive, when I wasn't in as big a hurry as when I drove it there. Only the second time I'd driven it since the EVC6 went in.

Obviously there are still a few things to sort out with the EVC.

Firstly, I noticed the settings had zeroed out. I reset it all, and then noticed that every time the ignition is switched off it wipes the settings. I'll download the PowerWriter software too, and see if I can work out a decent solution.

Second, once setup for 15PSI peak/optimum boost, I notice it now makes 1PSI at ~1500rpm according to the EVC display. Boost feels like it comes on a lot stronger, and it feels much nicer to drive, especially higher in the rev range.

Thirdly, since I run a pod and the Turbosmart dual port blow off valve (plumbed back and adjusted properly), I've had some chirping and turbo noise which is apparently not a good thing. I spoke to Turbosmart and they blamed it on the pod, not the spring or anything else setup wise. I notice since the EVC went in this is virtually eliminated.

So all in all, very happy with the HKS EVC6, and once it's setup properly should be an awesome addition. Car certainly feels sluggish on the default 11PSI though!

I like your style. I want to fit an oil pressure/temp gauge somewhere, might try and move the DVD ROM, but I'm keeping the factory screen.

I considered moving the DVD rom first up, but the cables to the back of it were so short, the only place you could really tuck it away is right where the passenger airbag sits. There's just no room under the dash without taking something else out & I wouldn't like the thought of cutting & extending the leads to somewhere else either, they look like they'd be pretty easy to screw up.

I want too concerned about losing the factory screen capabilities (mine was even converted to English when I got it) - mainly because I had already lined up the Alpine 2din

Your android tablet gauge pod is awesome.

Clean, no clutter, no tackyness... just smooth...

C34s wouldnt have a compliant OBD for that kind of multimonitor thingswoud they?

I had a look at a few ebay head up displays but wasnt certain if it would work and be configurable enough to give me:

A) RPM graph

B) dig speed

C) dig boost

Thats it, no other shit on my windscreen.

dig water temp would be nice.

Edited by shane344

Your android tablet gauge pod is awesome.

Clean, no clutter, no tackyness... just smooth...

C34s wouldnt have a compliant OBD for that kind of multimonitor thingswoud they?

I had a look at a few ebay head up displays but wasnt certain if it would work and be configurable enough to give me:

A) RPM graph

B) dig speed

C) dig boost

Thats it, no other shit on my windscreen.

dig water temp would be nice.

The info is all interpreted through the OBD port by the HKS OB-Link, which is plugged into the car & sends the info to the android tablet (or phone) which is read & displayed by the corresponding app.

HKS have a list of compatible vehicles that the OB-Link works on, not sure if the C34 is on there or not...

The OB-Link cost me about $230 from Greenline

Took Moby for a drive, and filled up the tank.

Got the EVC setup. I really should learn to read instructions and push the combination to write the settings to the ROM.

It's now setup for normal boost at 15PSI and max boost at 15.5PSI. I don't want to go any higher than that on the stock turbo, lest it blow apart.

It feels brilliant from 1500rpm now, really pulls and goes, which makes the throttle restriction worse... Good thing it'll be leaving soon! :D

The turbo is making far fewer weird noises now, less 'helicopter' noises, less sneezing. It feels like it's either on, or off, with no slur in between.

I like it!

Found a standard 260RS front bar. It's months away from getting to me but i'll respraying the front end and touching up the rest of the car when it finaly get here.

Anyone keen on a genuine Freeway Dolphin front bar?

HKS have a list of compatible vehicles that the OB-Link works on, not sure if the C34 is on there or not...

Pretty Sure its only the 35's that have this OBD2 port. 34's use the older OBD1.

Also did this to my stagea yesterday

drove over a roofing screw :verymad:

post-96096-0-37184900-1350524009_thumb.jpg

Edited by Nadnerb

Replaced the accessories and air con belts with new Gates Micro V belts according to Cam's helpful tutorial: http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=88&p=1867&hilit=belt#p1867

Used the same part numbers as Andy. Was pretty easy.

There is some squealing on startup now which goes away very quickly. I think the bracket for the tensioner on the aircon belt is cactus though, looks bent, so may need to replace this depending on how it goes.

Also thought it was interesting that Gates' instructions recommend replacing the tensioners with the belt - has anyone ever done this?

Also didn't bother putting the undertray back on. Looks pretty sad and sorry for itself. Think we need to look into getting something like this made locally:

1289991904462-1892279642.jpeg12899919062721132602189.jpeg

Replaced the accessories and air con belts with new Gates Micro V belts according to Cam's helpful tutorial: http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=88&p=1867&hilit=belt#p1867

Used the same part numbers as Andy. Was pretty easy.

There is some squealing on startup now which goes away very quickly. I think the bracket for the tensioner on the aircon belt is cactus though, looks bent, so may need to replace this depending on how it goes.

Also thought it was interesting that Gates' instructions recommend replacing the tensioners with the belt - has anyone ever done this?

Also didn't bother putting the undertray back on. Looks pretty sad and sorry for itself. Think we need to look into getting something like this made locally:

1289991904462-1892279642.jpeg12899919062721132602189.jpeg

Is this something AM Performance could knock up?

Possibly, otherwise I know dad used a local sheet metal mob to do some work on his rally car, might be worth chasing down.

For it to be worth making locally it'd need to be less than $200 each, since you can get them for ~US$170 plus shipping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...