Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It was pretty straight forward as per the write up i got too much hose as well though.

did the initial bleed last night, bled it till no more bubbles. but decided to do it again this morning with some light!! and it was just trickling coolant out of the valve with no bubbles.

i think it will be a very good mod to have letting all the coolant flow through instead of it sitting behind that plate..

thanks mate

All good things come to those that wait, and tonight Andrew at AM Performance posted pictures on Facebook of my new intake.

post-34363-0-90270300-1354098789_thumb.jpegpost-34363-0-19941200-1354098808_thumb.jpeg

After originally thinking he'd need to make two versions, one for the airbox and one for my pod, Andrew ended up making one that suits both.

I'll be giving the whale her maiden voyage tomorrow night, and if everything goes well Andrew has a jig ready to go.

It's been a long two weeks but looking forward to driving Moby again! And not having to drive a mint green automatic Barina with pink seat covers anymore...

So, how does intake length impact performance?

More length (plus corners) would cause the air to take a few extra milliseconds to reach the turbo - that can't really be a big deal, or can it?

The reason I bring it up is that my intake would be a foot shorter....

Mate, there's no doubting it'll be sooo much better than the stock one. The question of length was simply me contemplating the universe, physics & automotive engineering (3 things I know pretty much nothing about, lol).

Interested to see how it goes Ryan, at what point along the intake is the reduction to 2.5"?

Leon, The extra length is additional volume effectively a "Plenum" area that the turbo can draw from, which doesn't hurt performance at all IMO.

I'm with you here Leon, don't know anything so relying on expert opinions! :P

Dale, Andrew has photos for me tonight so I'll be able to confirm, but apparently it steps up pretty much straight away from the turbo, but I wasn't aware the intake on the turbo was only 2.5".

Leon, The extra length is additional volume effectively a "Plenum" area that the turbo can draw from, which doesn't hurt performance at all IMO.

The old plenum in the intake trick (you have to say it like Maxwell Smart).

So if I route mine to the rear & back (8m) I'll get extra performance? See, now I'm being silly :P

The old plenum in the intake trick (you have to say it like Maxwell Smart).

So if I route mine to the rear & back (8m) I'll get extra performance? See, now I'm being silly :P

Somebody had to take it too far, didn't they?

The old plenum in the intake trick (you have to say it like Maxwell Smart).

So if I route mine to the rear & back (8m) I'll get extra performance? See, now I'm being silly :P

ever tried to drink through a really long straw???? just my thoughts.......

Car is back. Couple of things to fix before the SAUSA cruise on Sunday, but I'm confident it'll be right, and I'll be able to properly test out the intake.

After driving the car out of Andrew's workshop, I left it warming up, came back to find temps up to 120! Discovered it had dropped close to 5L of coolant - which doesn't sound like just the leak at the back of the block.

Topped up and temps seem ok - about 94 idle after 5-10 mins, but remember it's been close to 40 degrees ambient in Adelaide today, and wasn't much better tonight. Seems to be bled properly now too (although I thought it was before).

As for the intake, what a work of art. Andrew's work really is top notch. I asked him about the shape and it's basically that shape because he didn't want to lean on and cause damage to the air con hoses. He's found from other cars this doesn't cause a big issue. He's forwarding me through photos shortly, but the even the jig looks cool.

Only downside I can see so far is my intake temps seem to be higher. Not sure how much of this is because of the ambient being so high, but by the time I've sealed the pod in a heat shielded box we should be all good. Note I did change to a larger R2C pod at the same time, so I don't think this is the fault of the intake pipe.

Andrew also modded the fan shroud while I was there, so I've now got everything I need to overhaul the cooling system except the fan controller for the thermos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...