Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Religious oil and filter change.. found an oil leak somewhere in the turbo vicinity below rocker cover but above boots.. *sigh*

oil return line maybe? Edited by Lakes101

Looks like it didnt seal correctly. .... some gasket goo will help this.

Today i installed front swaybar (hardest setting), daleo front brace & ox rear brace i picked up for a steal. (Yes i know ive done this twice before). I also installed 1 part of the dolphin intercooler piping as ill need to modify the oem turbo intercooler piping where it bolts to the turbo for the 2nd bit to attach. post-77821-14565528584997_thumb.jpgpost-77821-14565528763051_thumb.jpgpost-77821-14565528950884_thumb.jpgpost-77821-14565529034387_thumb.jpgpost-77821-14565529558829_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Did an oil change (only 6,500km late...) and had a quick look around for issues. I think I've identified the source of an annoying tinny rattling noise that's been going on for the past couple of years - the outer skin of the Y-pipe has corroded. My wife asked what the means and I gave her a big grin and said "new exhaust time!" I don't think she was amused, she'd rather just keep complaining it sounds too girly compared to our Commodore (which is a Mootec with a foghorn-spec pipe on it).

Also noticed the sway bar bushes look very dry and cracked, could this be the source of creaking under brakes/cornering sometimes? I ask because Scotty's mentioned it's likely to be the compression rod bushes and they're not where I'm expecting them to be and I'm too embarrassed to ask where they are. :blush2:

Furthermore, the tyres are getting low on tread so we're now at the "upsize or make do" crossroads. Has anyone run 235/50 R17s on stock M35 rims? Theoretically they'll fit on the rim and are close enough in rolling radius but they'll probably look quite bulgy.

I'd love to splash out a few thousand on a set of 18s but we're in the middle of renovations and preparing to sell a couple of houses so money's not exactly flowing right now. :(

Haha. follow the compression rod from the bottom of the hub Matt, back to the body, you can see the large bush taking the rearward load of the hub. Press it out and replace with a Superpro poly bush.

Ok cool, thanks. I've only done rod bushes (and every other front end one) on the Commodore previously and they run forward of the hub, I thought I was going nuts. Do they take much to press them out? I don't have a hydraulic press and had to get an engineer to do get out the Commie's LCA bushes.

I should also report that happily the outside temperature reading has started working again all by itself. Great success!

I'd love to splash out a few thousand on a set of 18s but we're in the middle of renovations and preparing to sell a couple of houses so money's not exactly flowing right now. :(

I got a set of 18s off a Skyline GT sport or something like that for about $600 with good tyres...e.g.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/auction-1042008275.htm

  • Like 1

I got a set of 18s off a Skyline GT sport or something like that for about $600 with good tyres...e.g.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/auction-1042008275.htm

Or get some 350Z rims and make some space for those big brakes Matt.

They look awesome on the Stag, perfect offset, hundreds for sale too.

Servicing the other half car yesterday , I got a good look at my wheels, different vantage point.

The clear coat has seen better days on the spokes.

DpWI0Vm.jpg

h7mYWWg.jpg

So with a few hrs of daylight left I got into them with sand paper and metal polish.

Getting there

kFlFriQ.jpg

Not a perfect job but a damn sight better

qdUXmBY.jpg

wQ2HIMU.jpg

Got two done before it was too dark , this morning the other two.

Not a fan of blingy blingy but its better than peeling clear, and will tide me over till I find something that will fill out the guards better.

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...