Jump to content
SAU Community

Max Hp For Oem Internal Rb26?

cobrAA

By cobrAA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
Posted

being on a budget build, I would like to know what's the max HP for OEM internal ?

I'm fitting a crank collar and rebalance the crankshaft with a N1 pump and ATI 1000hp damper. I'm also buying a metal head gasket, I'm running a AEM Water-methanol injection and HKS GTSS. I would like to boost up to 23psi,maybe 25psi.

For the rest, I'm wondering if it's really worth putting the whole set of ARP stud, forged rods,piston, port the head, machine everything when I track the car once a years and do maybe 10-15 drag run per year.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350022-max-hp-for-oem-internal-rb26/
Share on other sites
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Depends on the tune,

what fuel are u going to be running?

If u keep the oil and coolant temp down by using oil cooler etc it will help alot.

U can run high boost on a stock moter as long as the peak pressures inside the combustion chamber are kept safe. If there is any detonation then the pressures will sky rocket way beyond a safe limit for the stock pistons, where as forgies u have a little but of a safety barrier.

So keep the tune safe, use a good fuel, and keep the engine temp cool

Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted

Depends on condition, number of km's and how hard it has been stressed and serviced over its lifetime.

It also depends on what level of tune you are going to run it at and how well you yourself take care of it, there have been stockers go 9 seconds but generally those are more of an "I told you so" exercise.

I'm disappointed someone hasn't said over 9000 yet to be honest.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

well if it's in good nick it will run whatever the turbos will flow at 25psi. having said that on stock pistons 25psi is a fair bit of boost. I'd be looking more like 20psi-22psi with your stock engine with metal head gasket. like the guys said though it's a bit of a lottery. it may last forever if you keep good oil in it and run a good oil cooler etc and keep temps under control, or it may spin a bearing first track day out. only one way to find out.....

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

yeap, everyone so far is spot on, my motor when i brought it was running 20psi with N1 steel wheel turbos, i drove it on the street for 12months, (its my second car so i dont drive it much) and did one trackday. When i took it to the dyno for Jez to tune, once tail pipe A/F and the A/F guage was put in before the cat, they wouldnt even ramp it up under full load on the dyno, it was too lean.... we didnt even do one run they started adding fuel straight away.... so who no's what A/F ratio it was running and what they did with the tune before i brought it, the night we were tuning was only 20deg too so the engine was nice all cool, compared to the 35deg day i did my trackday at eastern creek, my oil temps where up around 125-130deg and my water temp got to 100deg when i was pulling off the track.... she was deff running hot!

The engine now has been tuned twice, and comp test came in at 150 across the lot, and that was a cold engine. shes a solid 311rwkw on only 18psi. and has lasted 1 night at the drags and a trackday at mdtc, and a far bit of street thrashing, so far, so good, i call it a freak as most rb's would have spun a bearing or shit em selfs in some sorter way. I always run good oils in my enigne (redline) and its changed before and after each and every trackday, i also make sure i do a warm up lap, and a cool down lap if the temps are starting to build. Oh and dont forget the 1L overfill if u plan to use the stock sump.

If its a healthy engine and you look after it, with quality stuff, it will last.... 25psi is a diffrent story but....

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

im running 22psi in mine with stock internals and N1 turbo's, in my opinion its safer to make more power with more boost but less timing than to run a lower boost and max it out with timing,

like i said in my 1st post its alot about the condition of the tune,

you can kill big end bearings with detonation not just oil starvation

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

Yep mine dropped a ring on 24 psi so maybe not that much boost, that was on a safe tune as well, car made 280RWKW but the boost was at 24psi through thr mid range and bled off up top as the injectors couldnt keep up.

Id say i was a touch unlucky though, it only lasted 4-5 thousand kms,

  • 10 months later...
hybrid_eg Enthusiast

hybrid_eg

Posted
Posted

I'm gonna give it a shot on mine, everything is changed except pistons and rods (new headgasket, arp headstuds, bearings, rings, etc. etc..).. tune/fuel/oil/cooling will be spot on so we shall see.. i'm aiming for 500whp max.. I had sr20's running 350whp daily with zero problems.. I dont see why this bad boy wouldn't hold more..

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

being on a budget build, I would like to know what's the max HP for OEM internal ?

I'm fitting a crank collar and rebalance the crankshaft with a N1 pump and ATI 1000hp damper. I'm also buying a metal head gasket, I'm running a AEM Water-methanol injection and HKS GTSS. I would like to boost up to 23psi,maybe 25psi.

For the rest, I'm wondering if it's really worth putting the whole set of ARP stud, forged rods,piston, port the head, machine everything when I track the car once a years and do maybe 10-15 drag run per year.

Given the amount of work you've already committed to, IMO its worth doing the rest and doing a full rebuild (without head porting, which AFAIK its a poor value mod at GT-SS level). Since the motor is out and you're taking the crank out, you'd do the mains and big ends while you're there... might as well just finish the job.

If it were my money I'd just do the balancer (since its a bolt on) and push the GTSS as far as you can (so no set psi figure) with a safe tune. Run an oil cooler/use quality oil/overfill sump. Don't rev the crap out of it.

Also, I assume when you're asking "will it survive", you are asking not specifically if your engine will survive, but something more like "assuming the motor is in good nick and I do all the things necessary to look after it (safe tune, dont let it starve oil etc) will there be a good chance it will handle that power level for a couple of years".

IMO the people in this thread have been too caught up in "every motor is different, we dont know how good your motor is, we dont know how you drive it" sort of thinking, which, while it is all true and valid, doesn't help OP at all.

My best guess is;

-7, -9, GT-SS = ok on a good stocker (with all the caveats)

-5 or more = full rebuild with forged pistons

800KD Contributor

800KD

Posted
Posted (edited)

My Rb26det has been making 475rwkw (638hp) @ 26psi for over 6mths with to4z and e85.

Forged pistons

Std Rods

Nismo bearings

Std short nose 32 crank

std oil pump

std balancer

MLS HG

Std head bolts

tuned by Sean at Efi

OEM Nissan parts are tough.

So many 300 - 350kw engine builds are so over engineered (

workshops and machine shops must be making a killing)

Biggest factor effecting a motors lifespan is the TUNE IMO!

ps currently upgrading, rods,crank, oil pump and going for more power.

Edited by 800KD
blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

There's another thread around with someone making 444rwkw on a internally stock RB26, bar new OEM rings and bearings?

There's also threads of people increasing boost by 2 psi and needing a rebuild....

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

There's another thread around with someone making 444rwkw on a internally stock RB26, bar new OEM rings and bearings?

There's also threads of people increasing boost by 2 psi and needing a rebuild....

And plenty of stock motors have blown up too. We need know the how many and the how of the failures to be able draw useful conclusions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...