Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Putting on an external gate GT3076 0.82 in the next few days. Got a PFC, Z32, 480cc injectors, bosch 040, splitfires.

I'm obviously going to have to get a tune from my favourite man in the world, Gavin Wood. I've just been browsing the E85 threads i found with a search, and it looks to me like I might be able to buy some bigger injectors (and maybe a bigger fuel pump?) and then go for an E85 tune, as there is an E85 petrol station 10 mins from my house.

From my reading, lots of people seem to think i don't need new fuel lines or anything, just regular fuel filter replacements for a little while. Others seem to think it will melt my fuel lines, then the whole car itself, til i'm left with just a puddle of skyline in my garage.

Is there much benefit to going to E85 for a 99% street car? I was going to get it tuned at around 280kw (1993 unopened rb25, so i don't wanna push it too hard), but from what i've read, looks like tuning for 300kw with E85 wouldn't be any more strain on the engine, while giving me more peak power and more midrange torque.

The next logical step is to talk to my tuner about it, but it's 9:15pm, so it's gonna be 12 hours before that happens. I'm fully aware of the 25 perfect more fuel usage and 20c cheaper per litre, but i'm okay with that :)

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i converted my GTR to caltex E85 4 weeks ago and it hasnt melted yet, havent changed the fuel filter or anything, im running 293kw with 660cc inj at 100%, so make sure you get some pretty big injectors for the power your chasing,

E85 smells awesome too, if you dont mind fueling up at only a few servo's and you dont drive your car on long trips i would go for e85, im getting around 320km's to a tank with fairly sensible driving compared to 380 or so with BP98.

i didnt see any power gains with my setup due to my N1 turbo's holding it back but i love the $1.05 per litre, and its also the safety margin you get with E85 being 105ish octane

I haven't killed my fuel system yet, I've been running it for a year or so. A lot of people confuse it with methanol which will eat exposed alloy etc.

I just found out 24 psi and ethanol's massive torque isnt good for a built re5ro5 trans. :( Looks like I will have the first manual M35 stagea, anyone know of an R33 gtr box going cheap? lol.

I haven't killed my fuel system yet, I've been running it for a year or so. A lot of people confuse it with methanol which will eat exposed alloy etc.

I just found out 24 psi and ethanol's massive torque isnt good for a built re5ro5 trans. :( Looks like I will have the first manual M35 stagea, anyone know of an R33 gtr box going cheap? lol.

There's at least one manual M35 in Syd already-sorry to burst that bubble

Logically - at the present time - No.

E85 availability is still problematic, especially in Vic and other states.

I mean yes you have one around the corner so to speak, but going on a reasonable 3hr spirited drive and having to take 2 jerry cans is the pits!

It would be viable in a few months as its slowly appearing more and more, so mid year would be a better time IMO to be looking down that path.

Will also allow you time to shop around and get a good price on injectors as a few people seem to be upgrading of late ;)

Not sure where you read all the other stuff about melting fuel lines... I don't recall such rubbish being posted here :)

http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/BioFuels.aspx

I also a read a commit to something like 400 pumps across australia by the end of 2011. Personally the local just installed an E85 pump so i'm going straight to RB25de+T from an R34 into my spare 32 sedan :D.

Being as a lot of stations mix the E85 themselves and hence has pretty bad variability how do you tune around this, being as alcohol needs to be richer than petrol, do you just purposely dilute some fuel to say E75, tune with that as a buffer and deal with the fact that it is running slightly richer than needed?

Thats about right, tune rich on the e70 in the pumps now and it should run fine if they ever change to e85, which they don't seem to be doing this summer...

Remember the fuel in the servo tanks will be diluted, and the fuel in you car's tank so it wont just swap to e85 on the next fill anyway. I run a wideband and check WOT after each fill, it keeps me happy.

i wish i had e85 on pump in tassy. i rang the bp and shell depots for tassy last week and both said they have no plans to bring it to tassy at this stage. they dont even bring 200 litre drums in.

Someone has mentioned they use a re-usable washable fuel filter when using E85, but can't seem to find the author.. I'm after a link to this product.

I just use a disposable metal commodore one, $10 at any parts store. I have used a proflow one, they aren't bad but they wont warrant the rubber oring seal for ethanol use.

Being as a lot of stations mix the E85 themselves and hence has pretty bad variability how do you tune around this, being as alcohol needs to be richer than petrol, do you just purposely dilute some fuel to say E75, tune with that as a buffer and deal with the fact that it is running slightly richer than needed?

It actually says on the caltex site that they change from 70-85% depending on the season.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...